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True but I’d imagine he’d be wanting to look after his trails so we don’t fook them up when it’s too wet. It’d be good riding now let’s get a ride organised.
I’m watching and waiting for another SC ride to come up. Might be too wet still?
Have a really REALLY close look at the Nikosil coating on your cylinder. I mean get a magnifying glass in good light, WD40 on white rag until there is no more grey coming off the coating and look for cracks, flakes and bubble spots or dents. Especially around ports and bridges between them. Take photos and note them to look at next time you rebuild if there is suspicion. I’ve seen and heard of some barrels after a seize happened that look fine until rings were wearing out real fast and on close look the coating had damage requiring recoating or complete barrel replacement. Not trying to jinx you but it’s worth checking properly. If it’s all bad news then throw it together and ebay it. The straw that broke the camel’s back if you know what I’m saying.
I forgot to say earlier to consider a fuel issue. Fouling a 300 now days is not that common. Your plug could have gone bad or your fuel is bad are most likely. Not jetting. Also, you say 40:1 but if you oiled that fuel up twice by mistake you’re now at 20:1 (or worse) which will be smokey, spooge running down the muffler. The more oil the run the leaner the fuel mix will be – how lean I don’t know. On the same lines mixing poor quality or ancient oil in with fuel (usually straight into your tank) can also be the cause of too much oil at the bottom of the tank, not enough at the top… I remember with Shell 2SX (still says on the bottle) we had to mix it very carefully or it would not combine well.
I’d be keeping the head as it is making sure there are no protruding dents so hot spots can start issues like preignition, otherwise it’s just cosmetic. From what your saying I don’t think coolant has anything to do here. Replace your reeds, tighten all clamps so they don’t spin but not overtighten, check your airfilter boot/cage for dust/dirt, top end as you wish and measure up how much gap the old rings were. Lift the conrod up and down for any big end up/down play by feel. Take the flywheel/starter cover off and see if you find any white stuff or excessive oil and crap in there. Check the power valve opens and shuts completely easily otherwise there is a pita job right there (more orings and lots of scotchbite).
Nice fresh 95 octane fuel and oil. Never heard of Klotz, US$48 per gallon is cheaper than anything we normally buy here (Mobile1/Motorex/Motul/Silkolene).
As for jetting I don’t know what year you have but I think 2008 – 2013ish are all compatible. I run 38P, 165M, NECJ #3, 1.5ASout for winter. Newer bikes will be different.The pitting is very small and lots of them, I’d believe detonation. Wouldn’t believe that was from moving the needle clip one position for a second. That jetting is reasonable. I think you have ridden the bike for some time without issue, jetting just doesn’t change for no reason. Failed CF petal is not uncommon, but wouldn’t do that damage IMO. Wondering if the plug foul was an oily or heavy carboned up plug? Also wondering if you were getting hanging idle or unusual run-on? I recon you have an air leak, filter, carb boot, main seals… I’ve never seen that white stuff before ever. Greyish oil is fine from beaten up aluminium clutch plates but white sticky looking stuff – strange. If you had a head oring leak it sould be very obvious, oring damaged, damaged grove (been there) plus it would be spitting coolant just riding normally.
Sounds reasonable to me. $2.5k of rebuild on a $5k bike, can’t beet that.
Now that is something I haven’t seen before.
Impressive, thanks for letting us know Toes. All the best to Kye, sounds like great experiences.
I used to run a brass screen filter from Ballards. Don’t anymore, never had it catch anything interesting. I don’t think many people do any more.
I think from memory the adjuster on mine didn’t protrude from the case, but I could be wrong. Don’t worry about jets as said if it runs fine just ride it LOLWho’s this guy?
Welcome back Mick (last login June 2013).We rode for about 1.5 hrs out there Saturday avo. Fantastic weather, hard going, lots of water and mud unfortunately. I think we should all stay away from it for a few weeks still, there are a heap of places that are nearly impossible to get through.
May not do the full ride Al, fitness the issue here and still recovering from the Flu. We might drive to Momo and have a play in around there on the weekend.
This weekend 16/17 will be clear. I’m in. There must be some bog on the way with the rain we had, at least the track will be marked again!
white rocket wrote:they have been selling them for years axel :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:I thought after they rec the alloy frame they lasted a couple more years and that was it. Be nice to have one rec reg. They are prob fairly cheap too like $9k?
Didn’t even realise you could still buy a Yamaha 2T YZ… nice one
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