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Pegs smegs. Overrated. I removed my pegs years ago and go bearback. Saved a heap of weight off the bike and allows me to move around on the bike much easier. Much easier to paddle through deep ruts without catching my thongs on the pegs of skinning my ankles.
Good stuff Murph. Another quality ride eh. :cheer:
Signature says: “2009 Husky TE 610” (shrug)
Phew, good outcome. Could have been a serious horror story for all concerned. Awesome support effort lads.
That tree the young bloke is hitting is huuuuuuge!
I could barely climb over that nowdays.
That’s serious commitment. He’s nearly vertical… I don’t think I would have tried that when I was his age. Well done.Bundyroy wrote:
Quote:…Thought about undoing the needle on the slide but thought I was only creating work for myself and let sleeping dogs lie.Let it be said that lubricant from the throttle cable or water+grit from washing the bike can be real good at gravity feeding down the cable into that needle/slide area.
Up to you, if everything is good then leave it. Otherwise tilt the carb a bit and slide out the throttle slide. Undo the cap/nut you see to release the needle. You’ll notice the spring keeping some tension. Make sure parts don’t go flying everywhere. I bet you there will be grit sitting there somewhere. Take note how the plastic seats in there are placed as it is very easy to assemble incorrectly and cause yourself headaches. Throttle must snap shut. No spring noise or funny sounds from the carb end when winding the throttle on and off.
Hey Murf, take what’s written on the master cap serious. If it says Mineral you put mineral. If it’s brake fluid, put brake fluid. I’ve heard of KTM shops giving advice to use fork oil, for the love of… They don’t mix well. Damage to o-rings is real. Some owners that require mineral and don’t want to pay the $30 for Magura mineral have successfully used ‘another’ type of mineral fluid. Just shouldn’t use anything synthetic in that case. I think yours should be using DOT4 like later models.
I have one and know of 2 others with them too. No trouble. Great replacement unit for current bikes. Temp warning LEDs are handy for boil prone bikes.
To straighten the disk I grab a thick black marker and a big arsed adjustable wrench aka “shifta”. Raise wheel, spin wheel, notice where pad scrapes, colour in the disk where you think it touches, spin wheel, if marker rubs away that’s where it touches. Utilise the wrench to bend disk a little without snapping it. Repeat until no more pad touches disk.
(Unknown source sitting next to me who should know but doesn’t want to be identified):
“Rangers can ask you to give your name and address if they suspect you are committing an offence. If you drive a motor vehicle in a national park, you can be asked to show your licence and give your name and address. You can be fined if you refuse.”Best thing to do if you have something to hide is…hide.
Good stuff mate, you’ll love it. Yes the famous WOT problem I was referring to. Those KTM dealers are a bunch I agree. See you on a ride that way next time.
Did Diddel win the lottery?
Abandoned the Ass Gasser for something more serious?
Don’t forget to safety wire the throttle cable outer Diddel.Looking forward to the report and pics Murph. I’ll have to keep an eye on future rides now I’m back on the bike. Cheers.
TISCO wrote:
Quote:Dont forget you guys get an old bull Discount..That makes the choice a no brainer. I’m sure we all will do what we can to support our sponsers! :cheer:
My notes above only show what a great deal we get through Suttos without a doubt.
The A/M kits are bad value in my opinion.
Ballards:
Wiseco $285
Vertex $277
Woosner $215
ProX $285
+ Gaskets $49
+ Small end bearing $15 -
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