[AlexMember]

menace wrote:

Quote:

if you look at the ‘prorider’ website, their kits are $239 but no group 2 in stock.
‘procycles’ (who are near suttos) do them for $263, and have group II pistons.

Hmmm….. I looked some of this up myself just now.

Procycles website
Group I $289
Group II $263

Prorider (rang them because their website is mental)
Group I & II $272

When I spoke to Mr Prorider, I asked him what he recommended for say an 80hr 300, I or II.
He said I should measure it (fair enough). Then he said this: “If it’s too tight (Group II) then you risk “lipping” the piston”. “If it’s too loose (Group I) you risk not having enough compression” :blink: :blink:

If I were him I would have probably said nothing or something more sensible like:
– Too tight = more risk of cold/hot seize or in other words too much ally on nikki.
– Too loose = risk of quicker wearing piston, piston rattle, broken skirts etc.

Rang Ballards just for completeness, awaiting a call back on A/M kits.

Either way, I’ll be tearing down to measure first and going through Suttos in the end.

[AlexMember]

:laugh:
He might even stick it on his bike to give it super powers.
Before you throw it in the trash TB, I might try it on my PDS shock to sort out a niggling issue I have there…. 😆

[AlexMember]

Found another product that is real good for balance too:

And this one is the “Pro” version:

[AlexMember]

Those photos of the forest are drool worthy. Lucky bastards. :cheer:

[AlexMember]

Yep I was just thinking that myself TB. This happened to me once also. New bolts no excuses, as the bolts will be damaged and will elongate your hub holes more when they come loose again.

[AlexMember]

Good stuff guys. Glad to see you all take care of the trails. Glad our crew didn’t head up there, we are scared of the rain haha
we managed a local sicky ride Friday to compensate and rocket if your reading this don’t go down tomingley road that place is a SWAMP. Scull dragging out of bog holes was the order of the day.
Hope to catch a ride with you folks before summer in the mountains.

[AlexMember]

Good job menace thanks for the write up and pics.
So you cleaned up the powervalve too after 100hrs eh. Do you think it needed it?
That ring wear is quite good. I wonder what gap those blokes running 200hrs get to?? :ohmy:
Did you end up putting in the bigger piston from ktm?
I have to hit up suttos for a kit too soon. I keep holding off to sell the girl but there’s not enough genuine interest. Did you Know that boltons sell 1 ring, not pairs off their website? What the??

[AlexMember]

We WERE going out there Fri/Sat but looked at the weather maps and it’s dashed hopes of a camp out + ride. Will it ever stop raining.

[AlexMember]

YE GODS! Your chain is on the wrong side of your bike! You’ll never get good track-shun. It’ll keep pulling to the right! What’s that, oh it’s supposed to be like that is it. Sorry. Keep us informed on your new rubbers, I mean tires.

[AlexMember]

Hello fellow 2 smoker.
KTM 2st bikes often, if not always have 2 sized pistons.
I or II, A or B depending on what era the bike is.
The II or B piston is slightly bigger than the original. The actual size difference I can’t remember but will be known to someone here or a quick search on KTMTalk will tell you.
Theres always been debate over which size to run. Many believe and actually do use the II piston after the original wears out.
I’d rather use a little science to help make that decision.
I’ll rather measure the current bore, find out how big those 2 pistons are and look up which would be within reasonable limits for a forged 2st piston. I’d rather use a I for as long as practically possible. Rings should last 80-120 in a reasonably paranoid world. Some stretch out to 200hrs. In practice I can tell when the rings need changing when the bottom end power deteriorates noticeably. I measure the piston everytime but generally a piston change every other time seems the go. If you have the money and like things perfect then change the piston everytime if you like.

[AlexMember]

white rocket wrote:

Quote:

your bikes a shed ornament axle how could the rings be worn out just ride it

Wash your mouth out. It’s a shed ornament because the second hand market is useless still and no-one is interested to drive 5 hrs to buy the f’n thing.
I’m this close to giving up and keeping it.
It’s not ready for rings yet but I’ll have them close buy for when it does. I just like spending money. :side:

[AlexMember]

menace wrote:

Quote:

i looked all over for the best and cheapest piston kit for the Kato.
the best i found for a ‘group2’ kit (one size up) was $240. and believe it or not in sydney, from ProRider. they didnt have one in stock when i enquired.
the next cheapest was also from sydney, ProCycles at $263.
Seeing procycles is a KTM dealer and they were doing them that cheap, i thought id give Mal at Suttos a go.
in typical dealer fashion he quoted me an astronomical price :laugh: i think the piston was $300ish :laugh: :laugh:
i told him what they were going for and he matched the price on the spot good onya Mal, much appreciated.

Just looked it up on Boltons online :

54830107200 I AK PISTON CPL. GR 1 D=71.925 1 $344.65
54830107200 II AK PISTON CPL. GR 2 D=71.935 Nil $344.65

$104.65 over your kit from Mal’s/Prorider. Is this true? WTF?

[AlexMember]

How much Al? You got the whole wheel complete then? I better go and check I still have a rear wheel on my 300….. :dry:

[AlexMember]

That photo of your forks/clamps gave me a knot in the stomach.
I’d go along with TB and see if you can reliably verify there’s no cracks. I would be very surprised if both clamps fail at the same time causing you an accident. If you have the money or are tempted by the idea of “adjustables”, then just buy a set. No question.

Nice work on the engine rebuild. There’s no good excuse for any 2st owner not to do this work themselves. The savings from doing it yourself pays for the torque wrench.

If no-one wants to buy my 300 I’ll be looking at a new set of rings and I’ll get out on mine again.

[AlexMember]

It’s amazing what you can get away with with a little luck. Hooked teeth was always a big indicator. I’ve seen missing teeth on the rear of some people’s bikes. I’ve been know (when I had no money) to spin the countershaft the other way (bad). I try and pull the chain off the rear sprocket and that gives me an idea on wear. More than halfway off the teeth is not so good. I don’t subscribe to the idea of replacing sprockets without the chain (apart from the front sprocket, but rarely). If worn sprockets can wear out a new chain why wouldn’t that be the case the other way around? 4000 km is not a bad run in my opinion btw.

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