[AlexMember]

Luckily your only stirring White Bunger. I’ll give you some 2moking when I see you next.

If this thread and it’s magical technology has come down to hot ups for 50cc bikes then I’m checking out of it. Interesting but not relevant is not enough. Cheers

[AlexMember]

Has a gauntlet been thrown down?!! :laugh:

TB, the dyno won’t be able to measure “the vibe of it all”. That’s where the real advantage is. :laugh: :laugh:

Sorry, seriously, I am genuinely interested in the final outcome of this thread. I just hope sooner than later. Let the dyno’ing begin!

Oh, most water pumps I’ve seen run off a pulley and belt. Would you not just change the pulleys?! I’m no engineer. :blink:

[AlexMember]

Looks like someone needs to open the thermostat on this topic to cool it down. Or is it close the thermostat a little, to slow the flow, to cool it down, or maybe use diffusers to direct the flow…or is it…. bah! :blink:

[AlexMember]

BOLLOCKS wrote:

Quote:

hear hear axel…by the way…my daughter loves your avatar

Oh shucks, :blush: , thanks :blush: :blush:

I use it alot, it’s very fitting for me for those that know me.

Back to the tips and tricks, I’m usually the worst offender for helping out too much on the trails. I usually dish out too much information at once. It may be tricky to learn but it’s also hard to teach. Everyones different, everyone has their own opinion on how to do it, what works for them etc. In fact, I’d bet there are many, many experienced riders that won’t help anymore for various reasons like – they can’t explain themselves, nobody listens/appreciates their advice, they have radical ideas/technique/opinions. Some may even think it’s something others have to “earn”.

I’m not like that at all. Its a dangerous, expensive sport. The more we help each other the more we can all enjoy it together safely.

[AlexMember]

Good ideas guys. One of the great things about these sites is the ability to help and be helped by others. Everyone benefits.

[AlexMember]

billt wrote:

Quote:

I use a good quality Silcon Spray on my chain, have been doing it for a couple of years now. Stops the shit form sticking to your chain and does a good lube job.

Bill.

Now THAT I find interesting. I have read the start of this thread but have chosen to stay clear as I am one of those nasty “no lube, new gen” activists

As always, everyone should “do what works for them”, but despite me doing my own thing I do like to see new ideas and their results.

Out of interest, I managed nearly 6000 kms out of the last bike (KTM250excf) with only one set of chains and sprockets changed (and they were probably 30% worn) before I sold it. Regina (~4500kms) then RK (~1500kms). I only lubed the chain after cleaning crud with a laundry brush before washing the bike (every now and then).
My theory is: o-rings keep the grease in. Don’t spray anything on the chain that will dissolve that grease or swell the the o-rings (WD40/kero/etc). Keep the o-rings from drying/shrinking.

I don’t believe the chain lube keeps the chain from getting “heated”. I don’t believe the lube can stay on the chain long enough to slow metal on metal contact significantly either. In my experience anyway.

I’m going to try the Silicon Spray, I like the theory. Moisten but not sticky. Thanks Billt. Maybe graphite lubes will work too.

[AlexMember]

Rosey! Welcome mate. I didn’t know you got a 250. Nice bike. Maybe we will finally get on a ride together eh? The Doobo contingent will be heading up to Patto’s again in the near future, keep an eye out.

[AlexMember]

Standard speedo was smashed to smithereens by the last owner of mine (it’s last ride!) and I replaced it with a TT Vapor. For the money $199 there’s alot of technology in it. I think it’s worth every cent considering what everything else costs nowdays. The temp sensor is very handy as well as the programmable warning lights. Would be a good indicator for you.

[AlexMember]

Quote:

my poor old mangled radiators

:blink: :blink:

[AlexMember]

Hopefully DBP does a great job just like the A4DE….pricks

[AlexMember]

Ecks had his old DRZ jacked up by Racetech I think. I had a spin around rocky Catombal. Very impressed. You should be happy with the results despite the seal cost drama. That money is on the mark from memory.

[AlexMember]

I dunno Bruce, you seem keen on this hotspot idea. I agree with the White Bunga, there’s a reason for what’s going on there and I don’t think it’s a “design fault”. I am no expert either though!
It may be typical for the Yamaha clan but as I said before, I have never experienced anything like what you have with any of my Kawas or KTMs over 20 years.
Also, as you know the Nikosil is really tough stuff so unless it’s really physically damaged, scotchbrite it and it’s good to go!

[AlexMember]

white rocket wrote:

Quote:

its fully sick mate love it shes a white one hay bloke

Nice one cuz, can’t tell we’re from Dubbo hahaa, sheey’t.

…and I had sheet put on me for my white plastic WR200… it’s back in fashion

[AlexMember]

I must say, cold starting bikes without choke on smells to me like rich pilot/air screw mixture.
Every bike is different so it takes time to work out the starting procedure that works best.
For what it’s worth, (Kato 2st) I cold start with a kick and re-start with button when hot. IN recent years, after every ride and before loading on trailer, I drop the bike on it’s side on the ground to drain the float bowl. Not very environmental I know.

[AlexMember]

Steering dampener too Dunk? Spending up big.
Generally speaking (for tall guys primarily), standing should require no effort to apply the foot brake. Sitting down will likely require the boot to move forward to apply the foot brake. Unless your boot is super flexible.
The Katos and TMs should have height and play/reach adjustment.

[Author]

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