[Paul BaylyMember]

Formula? Sure.

Plan to replace your tyres at tax rebate time. If you think it won’t make it, buy a house. That will put an end to your riding so you won’t wear out the tyre.

Y’know it’s also possible to resurrect a really bad tyre by dressing up the edges of the knobs with a fule/knife/angle grinder.

[Paul BaylyMember]

micknmeld wrote:

Quote:

I made sure that I had covered the chains in copious amounts of Lanox and after a ride the chain still appears wet unlike the motorex lube I had been using. The down side of Lanox I have found is that it flings badly and dust settles on the flung product,it tends to spray off the front sprocket and drip out of the case saver in such a fashion, to give the appearance you have blown a countershaft seal.
I fell for this the other day and ordered a new seal for the XR only to work out later that the seal is OK and it was just a build up of Lanox.
So my findings are it is good but messy.

I love the lanoline sprays. Maybe you are using the wrong grade? I use some old lanoline spray, can’t recall the brand, that was left over from rustroofing an old car.

I spray it on a clean(ish) chain and LET IT DRY OVERNIGHT. Wipe off any excess while it’s still wet.

I found this worked great, even on sandy tracks around Gippsland. After about 3 days this stuff dries to resemble a wax, without the need to do any mixing or heating.

To clean it off I use WD40 to dissolve it a bit, wash the bike and chain, WD40 again to get rid of excess water, blow with the airgun if I have access, let dry overnight, apply lanoline spray, wipe wipe wipe, let dry, ride, fall off, and go thru the whole routine again :S

[Paul BaylyMember]

A rear tyre tiedown is easily fashioned from chain. Just make sure the chain and tiedowns clear the brake/disc/sproket etc.

[Paul BaylyMember]

Austblue, are you saying that you paid a professional (KTM shop?) to insert a helicoil and they did it incorrectly? If so, take the bloody thing back. I would be insisting they fix it. There is an implied warranty on their work y’know.

[Paul BaylyMember]

You blokes think too much…………:dry:

[Paul BaylyMember]

If the Jap brands made a 300cc registerable 4T I reckon they’d sell like hotcakes in NSW. I had lots of choices when I recently went looking at a new old bike, but in the end I couldn’t justify the extra annual cost of rego for a 400/450/510 over a 300 given the coupla hundred klicks it will travel per year.

[Paul BaylyMember]

Great stuff guys, it’s years since I changed a bike tyre and you’ve brought back many not-so-fond memories Love the stand, but isn’t it a little heavy to carry with you in the bush? :dry:

If I may add some hints:

1. Keep a length of split heater hose to cover up the sprocket teeth to protect a wayward fist or knee.

2. If you have trouble getting the last of the bead over the rim on refit, try clamping the sidewalls of tyre together opposite the section you are working on(not too tight). I use those ‘Quick-Grip’ woodworking bar clamps, but a g-cramp and a couple of strips of timber will do. This should help the far side of the tyre feed up into the centre of the rim (i.e. tyre is now off centre to the rim) and give you valuable extra slack toward the last section of bead.

3. The clamps are also handy to unseat a bead.

[Paul BaylyMember]

Can’t you solder it in?

[Paul BaylyMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Look I only offered an opinion after it was asked Beatle and why I had that opinion, use whatever you want I dont care but having just read your reply Beatle I thought it was a touch hard cause like I said you asked peoples opinions :blink:

Good luck with whatever you use mate

TB

Please accept my public apology Trailboss. I should have put more smilies into my post as I certainly didn’t mean to offend anyone.

As you say, I pays my money and takes my chances…..

[Paul BaylyMember]

New or used? If used, find a decent WR426. Wheelstand heaven, bigger tank/longer range compared to most other bikes, will love the open/sandy WA turf, relatively cheap and long-lived compared to the newer stuff. Tough as nails, and heaps of fun. Only real downside is no electric leg, but there are no hills in WA so you won’t need a starter, and real men’s bikes only come with kickstarters anyhoo .

[Paul BaylyMember]

Thanks for the concern TB and your objections are noted for the record I too work for a major engine manufacturer, though I don’t deal with pistons real often….

I have an idea how an auto transmission works. Sure, ATF is closer to hydraulic fluid in makeup than it is to engine oil. However, there are a few modern manual transmissions that run ATF in the gearbox, and these vehicles output plenty more torque than your average 2T dirtbike.

I have no faith in the factory recommendation because I’ve seen a factory explanation for the use of Motorex 15W50 oil and they say it’s due to the low ambient temps experienced in Australia. Maybe they meant Austria, but the response was in English. I can’t see how a lightweight wet clutch gearbox is supposed to operate efficiently with a 50W oil.

And, I never said I was going to change the ATF more often. If I leave it in there it will turn into 50W eventually 😆

PS: I just looked through the stuff that came with the bike and it seems the PO used Silkolene ‘Light’. So I might just go with that and see what transpires.

[Paul BaylyMember]

Dudes,

Sorry to kick a dead horse with this thread…

I think you’ll find that Rotella is the same stuff as Caltex (not castrol)Delo 400 here in Oz. I see there’s a new version of Delo called ‘gold’ but unsure whether it has any additives that might not agree with a wet clutch.

I’ve run Delo 400 in a bunch of different stuff (Alfa 4cyl, WR426, Trucks, Mowers) and don’t doubt its lubrication abilities one bit. Unsure whether it would affect dyno figures, but I don’t really give a toss as I don’t spend much time at the pub pissing in people’s pockets these days :laugh: Delo is also kind to bike clutches (lots of tractors run wet clutches too)and the WR426 never had a problem running Delo.

After all that, I’m going to try ATF in the 300:blink:

[Paul BaylyMember]

Mr Blue wrote:

Quote:

Ktmrat wrote:

Quote:

BC the threaded screws that goes into the plastic are a K60 X 20 WS6 which means a 20mm long wide pitched screw…..hope that helps:)

Mmm does WS = Wood Screw?

Bruce cee

STOP IT you blokes. You’re beginning to scare me. I’m yet to pull the tank or shrouds off so is there something I should be aware of.

[Paul BaylyMember]

I wasn’t sure if they were actually ‘Dzus’ fasteners. The receptacle doesn’t seem to have the correct shaped slot. On second thought, they have probably snapped off, hence nothing to hold a fastener in place. Might try to tap a course thread in there and use a bolt.

No biggie though, the cover stays put, and I could probably rivet and glue some velcro on there as well.

On the sidestand issue, mine is quite serviceable, I just thought a centrestand may be handy. But the more I think about it, a c-stand would realy only be useful while the bike is in the shed, and I already have a lift stand for maintenance.

Anyone know the inner dimensions of the base of the sidestand? I might make an extended foot out of some tube. Does the plastic foot just pull out?

[Paul BaylyMember]

axel wrote:

Quote:

….., all blue plastics, very unique for a kato.

Cool idea. Might be an option for me as all my gear is blue !!! In fact I still have a litre or two of blue coolant, and blue filter oil (can you buy Orange oil/coolant???)

[Author]

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