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One more thing that had me a bit cofuffled.
When you take the exhaust flange of the front of the cylinder there a couple of holes with o-rings on them on each side in line with the pivot point of the power valve flap. They open up to a gallery that does a loop around the flange and back into the head on each side of the exhaust. I gather these are water galleries that keep the pivot cool. The other option I thought of is they are oil galleries to keep it lubed but then it would only get splash oil and I didn’t think that would work too well. Hope this description sounds better to you than it does to me.
PS. Alex I was also worried about the z dimension thing until I read the book. Wouldn’t have even attempted it if I hadn’t got the book.
PS. Aaron, bring it round mate, I’ll give anything a go, especially if it’s not mine. From memory the yamaha manual was pretty good as long as you needed everything in five different languages.
Following my mechanical investigations I now have a few questions on how things work.
1) What do the reeds do? My assumption is they let fuel through when there is a vacuum created in the cylinder and prevent backflow when there is a positive pressure in the cylinder.
2) The science of the powervalve. I gather when the powervalve is open it lets the exhaust back into the cylinder better to give you that little bit better air volume for a more powerful compression. What causes the powervalve to come open. Is it just a revs thing overcoming some sort of centrifugal force? What do the two little openings that come open either side of the main exhaust do to help. I know they are closed when the powervalve opening is minimised and open when it opens but how much difference do they make and how?
Thanks
I like how the only person who doesn’t look worried is the girl commentating in the background, and she has her arm in a sling!
Man you’ve changed, or at least your avatar has. Look forward to meeting you on the enduroX track with the new bike.
Gibbit
1. Take the mungindi road (just on the northern side of Moree). Head out that way for 10km or so (guessing) and then turn left onto gingham road (there will be a sign to the track at turn off). Head down gingham road for a few km’s and turn left at sign to track. If you allowed 20 minutes from Moree it would be heaps.
2. All the pony expresses are run as club races which means you have to be a member of the host club to compete. In the past this meant $30 membership at each race (except if you did both rounds at races hosted by the same club). A couple of years ago we changed it so that once you’ve done one round then you get a subsidised membership rate of $10 at subsequent rounds. So I hope this is sort of clear but in short you are up for the $10 membership.
3. On this note, Huskybloke, if you did Coolatai (hosted by Moree) then you won’t have to pay any membership at this race as you are already a member of Moree club.
Please, please tell me you have some footage of Blue falling off.
I also have an alpinestars one (don’t know the model). I’ve had it about 4 years now and all good. I wear it all year round. It does have to be real cold in winter though before I wear a jacket. Great protection though and light and it moves with you. Cost me $260 but that was a while ago so probably more now I suppose. I just wear a cotton t-shirt under it to stop nipple cripple and a jersey over the top and I don’t seem to overheat in summer any more than I would without it. I’ve never unzipped any of the components and I would never ride without it.
A few of my mates have it too and they have cut the tail bone protector of the base of the spine protector as it sits either in or over the top of the pants. I haven’t changed mine. Just means you can’t tuck the jersey in which I wouldn’t do anyway.
Didn’t like 661 as it felt too heavy and stiff when I tried it on. It was cheaper though.
I love secret spots
Trailboss wrote:I was also told if you have to pick the seal out to pack it and then refit the seals you have damaged the integrity of the sealI have always wondered about that too. Even if you are very carefull you can still tell it has been removed. I think next time I do mine I will just put them in as purchased. Less mucking around at the time and my limited experience says ktm’s don’t like their rear wheel bearings anyway.
And like Murph said do check for circlips. Makes you feel like a tool when your cursing and wondering why the bearing won’t move only to find a clip. Of course I have only been told this, it would never happen to me.
Just get a 250 Aaron. You know you want too. It’s the best of both worlds. When you beat a bigger bike it’s boasting time and when they beat you you can blame it on not enough cubes. Your ability will never be in question. The best part about a 250 is you get to wring your bikes neck and feel good about it. It’s what they are designed to do.
Jetting – not sure. Whatever was in there when I got it. Haven’t changed anything.
Oil – Motul 800 45:1
Throttle position – lately haven’t been racing much. Mainly tight stuff so not much power band unless I feel guilty (for being slack) and get into it for a while.
With my limited measuring equipment I got an end gap of 0.6mm, piston diameter of 71.84mm and the only readings I could get for the bore were less than that so my measurement of the bore are a bit limited. I think I may have get myself a set of feeler guages tomorrow.
Maybe he used his sleaves to repair his jeans.
Personally I appreciate the effort he went to to get matching shirt and jean repairs. He had to leave the shirt untucked so that you could tell he didn’t just have his shirt tucked into his pants too far.
Mr Blue,
Is one significantly dearer than the other. I’m about to check mine, so may need to know.
On that note. Are reeds something that should be replaced after a certain interval (are they a wearing part). What happens when they fail. Signs of failure and damage to engine.
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