[RoyMember]

Thanks for the replys. After Axels post this morning I went back and did the fingernail test on the marks/stains. Couldn’t feel anything which made that awful knot I’ve had in my stomach for the past 24 hours recede a little.

When measuring the bore. I assume I do that at the top. I will measure both ends anyway and see if they are different.

Why measure at the bottom of the skirt. Are pistons bigger at the bottom.

[RoyMember]

Thanks Axel and Mick. I’d had a look at that thread before anyway. The only trick I found that wasn’t mentioned in there was getting the clip off the power valve actuator but luckily I googled ktm piston removal (before I started anything) and there was a clip on youtube about it. I probably wouldn’t have even noticed the clip. As with a lot of things it’s very easy when you know how.

And yes, this is my first crack at piston removal since I did it on the dt 175 when I was in early high school. Probably didn’t do it right then and certainly wasn’t too stressed about it either at the time. Different story now though.

Have ordered all the bits. Am a little concerned about pulling the power valve apart. I have pm’d White Rocket so hopefully he will come through with the service manual. I only have the owners manual and it gives me the measurements but doesn’t tell me how to do it.

I notice on the spare parts manual there is no gasket between the exhaust flange and the bore. It looks to me like they did use some sort of sealant in there though on mine.

When I take the exhaust flange off does the power valve then just pull out or do I have to undo all the mechanisms on each end. This z dimension worries me. How is this adjusted to ensure I get it put back in the right place.

Whilst on the topic of measuring. It says in the manual that dimension x is 0+-0.1mm. What is afore mentioned technique of getting this right. I have a torque wrench and vernier calipers. I have measured the gaskets taken out. They are 0.4 and 0.2. It looked to me that the piston was below the top of the bore. I have ordered a 0.2, 0.4 and 0.5. My plan of attack is to put in the 0.5, torque up the base nuts and then measure. If the piston sticks out then go back to what I had with 0.4 and 0.2.

Sorry for all the questions but I like to head into things with at least a basic understanding of what I’m doing rather then breaking something because I was unprepared. If push comes to shove I’ll get my neighbour in, he’s a qualified mechanic but I’d rather try myself if possible.

[RoyMember]

Obviously you don’t have to be old enough to get your P plates or drive a manaula car to get pregnant.

Do all thumpstars have dual exhaust. If not that must be why it’s worth enough to trade on an auto instead of a manual.

For a bike with no speedo it’s done well to last 10,984km.

That is just wrong on so many levels.

[RoyMember]

Just one more thing I forgot to ask. Is it worth cleaning the power valve part that moves up and down above the exhaust hole. It doesn’t look too bad but there is a little soot on there. Seems a little worse on one side than the other too. I gather to clean this you have to take the exhaust flange off the front of the bore.

Thanks

[RoyMember]

Did aaron leave the rag in the air cleaner again.

[RoyMember]

Reminds me of when my brother and I got our first bikes (PW80) for christmas. First day my brother goes flat out into a strainer post. Bent the forks until the front tyre was rubbing on the spark plug. Must have made mum and dad cry. It was brand new. My brother was knocked out for a good while (had a helmet on thank god).

Funny thing was Dad bent it back and we kept riding it for years. Leaked a little oil and had a bit of a sticking in that part of the stroke but went fine. Bring back the good ol’ days.

Bit different to a big bike though. Hope all is well and it doesn’t cost much like others have said.

[RoyMember]

Tisco,

Are those bike stands high enough to get a ktm (300) off the ground with clearance under the wheels. They sound like a good idea for fathers day if they do.

Thanks

Roy

[RoyMember]

Littswood,

Do you reckon the flange protector (that’s a bad name) is worth having. I’m having trouble visualising how it works. I gather it is supposed to stop impacts on the pipe from breaking apart the bit on the head that the pipe slips into. Is this right?

[RoyMember]

All you have to do next time you see some single track is put in another one beside it about 2m away. Now it’s a road, problem solvered.

[RoyMember]

No I’m not saying the 200kg limit is an issue. The bike pictured on the ramp in the aldi site in TB’s link is a road bike and I didn’t think there were many road bikes under 200kg.

[RoyMember]

Is it just me or are the chances of the bike being wheeled up the 200kg rated aldi bike being below 200kg very slim.

[RoyMember]

Got any of those signs spare Mick. Could do with a few. On a serious note one of my mates neighbours lets us ride in his place for exactly the reason you state. It stops his firetrails from becoming completely overgrown and they can still be found in the event of a fire.

[RoyMember]

Bob wrote:

Looks like a double edge sword to me …………..did none of u see the formed roads comment

My thoughts exactly Bob. We may have rego but it’s a bit hypocritical getting on our high horse about it when you are breaking the law as soon as you touch some single trail. I’m also guessing that means that if you injure yourself (or worse somebody else) when not on a formed then your CTP and comprehensive insurance is null and void. Hadn’t thought of that before either.

[RoyMember]

For those that are interested, went to the auto electrician today. There is a bracket that clips from the edge of the air vent to the edge of one of the dash panels for the Nissan. Made by Bury. No need for screws and all good. It’s being put on today.

[RoyMember]

Thanks again TB.

When I asked how long has it been going, I meant how many years has it been held. I gather this is not the first year it has been run.

Thanks

[Author]

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