[RoyMember]

Still works for me Ecks, but it is a bit random. There are a few threads I can’t do it on for some reason.

[RoyMember]

xy, I have changed the fluid now. I’m hoping what you said about brake fluid not lasting forever is the problem. Maybe 125 hour brake fluid change intervals is just a tad to long.

[RoyMember]

Thanks for your replies xy-transit and Dick Dastardly. My bike does have the adjustment screw but my understanding is that this just adjust the position of the lever in relation to the bars. I played with this at the time and it made no difference so I don’t think it was part of the issue.

Dick’s comment about the reservoir being overfull may be valid though. I remember thinking there was an awful lot of fluid in there. What I don’t understand is why it suddenly become a problem after 4000km. I had never had the reservoir lid off until that point.

Anyway bleeding the system seems to have fixed it. It all worked well on the weekend. Just hoping it is not something else that will cause it to come back over time.

[RoyMember]

Just looked up the axo gear as I’m a bit of a fan of AXO (had a pair of pants that lasted forever and were cheap). Apparently my armour is not alpinestars as my wayward memory thought. I am the proud owner of AXO Air Cage Pro. My recommendation still stands just for a different brand.

Apparently Dianese is the bees knees in body armour. Expensive though.

[RoyMember]

After seeing your photographs I now understand why you couldn’t double her up the hill

Good report by the way. I probably should have got off my date and gone too. I have heard good reports from others as well.

[RoyMember]

white rocket wrote:

Quote:

think the chicks like four strokes Aron they last longer

Not true, two strokes get to fire twice as often and no need to check the valve clearance!

[RoyMember]

By “fix” something, I’m including the replacement option. Whatever turns out to be the best value.

[RoyMember]

I tried the 661 suit on in the shop and thought it was very restrictive and stiff. Maybe it was just old. I currently have an alpinestar pressure suit. Can’t remember the model. $260 and a bit dearer than the 661. It is very good. Full length back protector (right down to tail bone), kidney belt, adjustable elbow guards. Light and flexible as well. Doesn’t move around once on. After I got mine about 5 of mates got it as well and they all like it. The only complaint has been that a couple of them didn’t like the back protection going so low. They pulled off the last couple of plastic pieces and then all fine.

[RoyMember]

Thanks Mick, thats what I thought. I was going to fix it regardless of what the general concensus was here anyway. Just thought I’d get a feel for how serious a problem it was. I had heard of chain gang sprockets so will look them up.

[RoyMember]

I have a fork seal cleaner as well. Different brand (can’t remember off the top of my head) and it’s metal instead of plastic. It has worked well for me in the past. Had a couple of questions from the STM’s methodology.

When removing the dust seals I have never removed the spring/wire o ring before doing it. I just put in the flat blade screwdriver and pop it off. Does this make me a bad mechanic?

When running the seal cleaner around the seal I have never popped of the inner seal circlip (to be honest, I didn’t even really know there was one). Does leaving it in make much difference?

As I said I have successfully cleaned my seals in the past without doing either of these things. Was just wondering if maybe this was because of luck (although I was cautious and careful).

Oh, one last thing. I have never removed the fork leg to do it either. Remove wheel, slide up plastic fork protector, remove dust seal and done. Sometimes I loose a little bit of oil but other times none. I have only had to do it 3 times over various bikes so not an expert or experienced by any means.

[RoyMember]

Not sure if the drz is the same but my old 2003 wr250F and my 2009 300exc both kick start and run with the battery disconnected (ie no battery). Can’t see why the drz would be any different. If it clutch starts it will kick start.

Love the jumper leads too by the way.

[RoyMember]

Imagine getting roosted by a 1300. Especially if it started throwing off those metal knobbys. Actually, thinking about it, metal or no metal, it is still going to hurt a lot.

[RoyMember]

I’ve done the same thing, but instead of a hammer I used the trusty old shifter. Put the blades tight on the rotor and the length of the handle gives you good purchace and feel for bending it back. It didn’t seem to mark the rotor.

[RoyMember]

Thanks for that Mick. That would be one tough race.

I like how they always try and tell you the bike is standard. What a crock. You can’t tell me the suspension is standard and I bet there are other things that aren’t standard either.

[RoyMember]

I reckon dunlop 756 is still the go if you can get them. I think they have been replaced by the geomax now. I have used the geomax as well. It is far better grip than the 756 when new. Looses it edge quickly though I found. Say less than 300km. Once this happens they shed knobs badly and the great grip you had when new quickly turns to not sure and/or I’m praying it will grip. The 756 probably doesn’t last any longer but they don’t shed knobs and are relatively consistent through the wearing process.

At the end of the day it is all personal preference. In general it comes back to what you need/want. Tyres that grip really well don’t tend to last and tyres that last don’t tend to grip. My personal vote goes for grip over lasting. At the end of the day there doesn’t really seem to be that much difference in how long any of the tyres I’ve tried have lasted anyway.

Haven’t tried any hard terrain tyres though.

I’m lucky to get much more than 500km out of a tyre I reckon. Had my bike 2 years, done 4100km (had 7 months off with broken wrist in that time), so 7 rears and a few less fronts in two years. So just over $700 a year on tyres. Worth it I say.

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