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How’s the wrist Kram. I know your pain. I was the bloke there last year with the broken wrist.
What’s the go Bol, No entry received yet. Will be prime conditions. 36mm on Monday night and more to come on Saturday. This ain’t no Uralla. This will be heaven on two wheels (well as long long as I can keep it on the wheels). Got to say 4 hours no button might suck a lot though.
The next level of investigation. Did the bridging thing. straight from bike battery to + terminal on starter. Nothing.
Removed starter from bike. Took off bridging cable, earthed starter out against pipe and hit button. Sometimes it went and most times it needed coaxing to get going. Once going would gradually build up speed.
Spun the starter by hand. Was expecting it to spin freely. Not the case. Sort of feels like a set of bearings with crap in them. Is this normal.
Writing this now I probably should have tried a different battery and the bridging thing with the starter out as well.
My summation so far is the starter is stuffed. Is this a fair assumption.
I know this is a dumb question but the earth on the starter motor. I assume it is earthed through all the metal in the engine etc and does not have an earth wire back to the battery with connections I need to find and check.
thanks for the tips. I have already cleaned all the terminals, just forgot to mention it. Will try the bridging thing.
In your first post you mention the 10L version. Do you have a picture of that. Is there any difference in speed between the 10 and 20L versions. I have heard the 20L ones are good when they are full but a lot slower once they get down to half full. Have you found any differences. Thanks
It makes you feel like punching the bloke in the red jersey half way up. He just stands there the whole time and didn’t even look like helping one person. I suppose he was probably filming too and if he did help he would of been stuffed after the first few bikes. Just doesn’t sit right though. If you’re going to be in the way then be prepared to help.
You know it’s a good hill when there’s as many stacks on the way down as up.
I was reading an article yesterday where Hollis was saying he was starting to get used to the rocks over there. Now I know what he was talking about. That makes Pork Chop look like a walk in the park.
I’m pretty sure I understand what you’re trying to do but have a couple of questions.
1) By shave the head I assume you mean machining down the flat mating surface on the head so that the compression goes up due to reduced volume at the top of the stroke.
2) By shaping I assume you mean that the domed part inside the head is machined away (as well as mating surfaces) to a better shape to allow for better fuel burn.
3) None of this will effect the distance that the spark plug screws into the head, so is the distance between the end of the spark plug and the piston the limiting factor or is there changes that can be made here too.
4) How much extra compression can the materials etc handle before life expectancy is reduced in exchange for performance gain.
5) I have a 2T but I’m guessing this can increase performance on 4T as well.
Boony wrote:
Quote:Heres to a speedy recovery champ.I looked a the speedo last trip up there and on a good bit of single I was doing 85kph.
Boony
I know what your saying Boony but if you can do more than say 40km/hr it is not what I’d call single, It is fire trail. Then again it has to be fire trail to be worried about cars. Not that I’m saying hitting a bike would be any better.
That’s what happens when you let the flat landers (narrabri people) into the hills. I was not there (not into adv riding yet) but my business partner was first on the seen. Very dusty. One bloke came through on his bike (my guess is both the bike and car were travelling to fast for conditions) and the car swerved to miss it. Lost control and was going down the road sideways when the second bike came round the corner. Collected the bull bar on the front corner. Whole front end of the dr 650 is totaled including the frame. Bullbar was pushed in on the tyre. Took around 4 hours from time of accident to helicopter leaving with patient.
Very unlucky as he endured the result of two others mistakes but very lucky to be still alive. Broke both femurs and both bones in one of his lower legs. Sounds like he cracked his pelvis and we hope his knee is ok. He is getting operated on today in NEwcastle. They expect it to take 10-12 hours. It will be a very long recovery and having two broken legs will be no walk in the park for him or the rest of his family.
One thing to come out of this was they were very lucky to get help as fast as they did. No mobile reception. No gps to know co-ordinates for helicopter. Luckily there was a couple of experienced treckers a couple of km’s up the road who had a sat phone and maps. I’m not saying everyone should carry a sat phone but if your heading into the scrub then a gps is a must for at least one in the group.
Just a side issue. I have done just under 4000km now on the bike. In that time I have replaced one set of pads. I have a sneaking suspicion it was the rear but am not 100% sure as my memory is not the flashest. I will find out though as when I did it I bought a set for the front and back and I still have the unused ones on the bench. I have not had any problems until now (well with the exception of when I was learning which way to go with the piston link when adjusting pedal height and went the wrong way). Something has changed when the pads have worn down. Measured them the other day (before the batemans ride) and I think there was just under 3mm left.
I mustn’t have been overly clear. Like Austblue said I was saying the australian price was good and it wasn’t worth going overseas to chase the part. The link not working didn’t help my cause any I guess. The $52 was australian not overseas. The only reason I even knew an OS price was that when you google things the yanks always make sure they are listed first unless you go australia only (which I did once I knew what I was looking for).
On the fluid thing. The manual says 5.1 but stamped on the master cylinders it has 4. Needless to say 5.1 will be going in.
On the riding the brake thing. I do have free play in my pedal so that’s not it. I think I need to lower my pedal a bit though (it is already just below footpeg height) as I can feel it on my boot now when riding. It may have moved slightly too. Will check all this during the repair.
Sorry for starting an OS/australian debate.
Just had a look for the reservoir extenders.
[url=http://http://cgi.ebay.com.au/KTM-Husaberg-Rear-Brake-Reservoir-Cooler-EXC-FE-SX_W0QQitemZ1804532048]Bits[/url]
Don’t look to bad. I thought they were plastic. Found a site in the us that sells them for $32USD so the ebay price seems about right too.
I can’t seem to get the ebay link to show up. It is frustrating the hell out of me. But if you are interested look up ktm rear brake reservoir in ebay and have a look. They are $51 delivered.
Thanks for the tips. I had heard of the extra reservoir but would only use it as a last resort as I just see it as something else to get knocked off and give you problems. I think I will try new pads and new fluid and see what happens. Maybe the minimum thickness in the rear pads that is okay for me is a bit thicker than what is stated in the manual. They are between 1/2 and 3/4 worn anyway so that’s not too bad.
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