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My 2c worth.
Not sure about your logic on chain length but my gut feeling says it would need to be more than one link longer. If you’re buying 2 new sprockets it may be better to buy new chain as well and the you’ve got it covered.
Be aware tthe change in ratio is going to knock back your open road cruising speed to around 89% of what it is now. Don’t know DRZ’s much but say you can sit comfortably on 120 now, this will be reduced to 106 at the same revs.
As for things that help. I’d say practice is the most important factor. Not sure of your tyre pressures but I run 12 psi. Take anything of the bike you don’t need to reduce weight. Will help with control and fatigue from having to pick it up on hills (not a criticism of your ability, we all have to pick up bikes). The surest way to bring any man undone is to get him to pick his bike up off the ground on the side of a hill a half a dozen times in a ride.
Not sure if 13/46 is a good ratio for DRZ as I’m not familiar with their gear box ratios etc. Others who own DRZ’s will soon tell you what they run.
Edit: Just saw Boony’s post. 14/50 is very similar to 13/46 but it means you only need to buy the rear sprocket (the dear one). Still not sure how many extra links you’ll need though. I’m also not sure how much difference it would make to the ride if you moved the wheel forward to get current chain to fit (if possible).
I went from 50 on the back to 52 and just moved the wheel forward and couldn’t notice the difference. I’m no chad read though either. It’s also not as much difference as 44 to 50. I do remember being surprised at how much the wheel had to be moved though for only 2 teeth.
I didn’t realise that was the fuel cap behind the seat. Here I was thinking “these boys sure like their bike to look pretty, they won’t even cover up one little plastic badge to get more luggage space”. I wasn’t game to say it though without knowing someone well enough (ie having met them) to give them shit. Lucky politeness won in this case or I would have had a little egg on my face.
What I know about carry racks could be written on a the back of a postage stamp in large writing so take what I say with a grain of salt. To me having the screw head proud of the plate looks like you are asking to have the base ripped out of any bags tied to the plate. The plate also looks reasonably thin and when a bag overhangs the side of the plate will the vibration/movement result in the plate eventually cutting/sawing through the bag material. I’m guessing this has all been thought of before and it’s fine but just thinking out loud.
I’m guessing the slots are for straps to go through. As I said I don’t have much need for any of this on the 300 so it’s all new to me.
I’m not trying to be a party pooper and the workmanship certainly looks good but the engineer in me had to ask. If you know any engineers you’ll understand that we are details people.
I’ve never fouled a plug on a bike yet (touch wood). I still tend to change them every 12 months or so just as insurance. I also carry a spare plug with me. I guess at the end of the day as long as you carry a spare it’s like Ecks says. Easy to diagnose and easy to fix if something goes astray out on the trail.
I briefly thought I’d fouled a plug once but it turned out one of my mates had turned my fuel tap off during lunch. Luckily for me I noticed it when I looked down at the engine to see what was wrong and didn’t make a goose of myself looking for some more extravagant reason why my bike had died.
Obviously that cat takes it’s tucker seriously.
February 29, 2012 at 12:43 pm in reply to: Who’s Going to be at the 12 Hour, Batemans Bay this Sunday (4th March) #217345It is a bummer. In a sadistic sort of a way part of me was looking forward to the physical challenge of 6 hours in the slops. Of course another part of me (the self preservation part) wasn’t.
If this keeps up I’ll be a tyre changing experts. I took off two tyres that were only about 1/3 worn to get ready for the race. Now I’ve got to put them back on. Maxxis IT might be bloody good tyres but they are stiff pricks to get on nd off. And the scab on my knuckles had almost healed too.
See you in April Hatto.
If he can stand in that position for any length of time he must have quads of steel. He’s obviously one fit bloke.
February 28, 2012 at 3:48 pm in reply to: Who’s Going to be at the 12 Hour, Batemans Bay this Sunday (4th March) #217292Hatto did you just use the transponder setup they give you last year and did it go okay or do you have some special way of carrying it to prevent it getting lost etc. I gather the one they give you has a bracket that zippy ties to the fork.
February 28, 2012 at 10:59 am in reply to: Who’s Going to be at the 12 Hour, Batemans Bay this Sunday (4th March) #217039Hatto,
Will we still be able to get to the track after the predicted 200mm of rain. Any creek crossings in the track that will become unpassable. I’m guessing the water comes up and goes down pretty fast down your way. Not looking like it will be dusty anyway.
sb_250y wrote:although a few people think Renthal Dual Compound Kevlar grips are betterAlthough I have never done any ADV riding at all, the renthal kevlar grips are the bees knees. Soft, grippy and long lasting. Love em. Only $20 too.
And yes LC’s avatar is also the bees knees or is it the monkeys bum.
It was either compromise on the car or compromise on the bike and we all know you can’t compromise on the bike.
BOLLOCKS wrote:Looking to do some distance rides on the CRF 450 xFirst thing I’d do then Boll is put some padding in your arse cheeks or maybe some in the seat.
I hope your neighbour was alright. Bloody unlucky. Hopefully the thumpster rider has learnt a lesson. He will have a long and painful recovery period and some significant traffic fines to make sure he doesn’t forget in a hurry. Unfortunately for your mate it sounds like there isn’t going to be much choice but fix the bike himself even though he was the innocent party.
Just for the sake of reinforcing wat has already been said. Protection gear. I’d get
Barkbusters/hand guards
Bash plate
Case saver
Radiator guards
headlight protectorI had all B&B gear on my old WR250. All excellent and strong. I have force radiator guards and whipps bash plate and case saver on the KTM (B&B don’t make a 2T pipe guard). Whipps gear is excellent as well. I would go B&B radiator guards over Force as I reckon they are slightly more open with angled fins allowing better air flow and easier cleaning. Not sure if there is a price difference though. Force are certainly strong enough.
I run Cycra Stealth hand guards. Excellent hand guards. Never broken a lever or guard yet touchwood. Then again I’ve got to say KTM levers are much better than yamaha ones. They seem to be able to be straightened without snapping.
I’ve used uni filter and twin air filters. Both are good. Twin air doesn’t look as capable as uni filter but I have never had dust get through yet.
Congrats on the bike. It’s a great model. You will love it. It certainly looks like it was owned by somebody who looked after it.
Just found a couple of reviews on advrider.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357191
Got a birthday coming up soon so might put it in the list.
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