[DobboMember]

Thanks guys, starting to feel like part of the asylum :woohoo:

will be picking your brains for ideas and tech info.

looking forward to reading the ride reports, probably looking at the pictures.

Cheers

[DobboMember]

In my younger days, I just washed the airfilter out in petrol, gave it a squeeze and put it straight back in and rode off, never had a problem.

Now, I wash it out in KERO, strain it, wash in warm soapy water, rinse in clean water, strain it and put it out to dry. then Oil with ‘206’ something.

I originally was told to use Turps to clean the airfilter, but found that days later, I’d find oil leaking out of the airbox; the turps would break down the oil over a period and it would settle in the bottom of the airbox.

I rode 10 days through the desert with only one airfilter, with a decent supply of well oiled chux clothes, never had a problem, even cleaned the airfilter in some warm water, then coated it in my spare engine oil…. did the job, but I would have used something else if I had a choice.

[DobboMember]

moto wrote:

Quote:

Nickj wrote:

The air gap should be set at atmospheric pressure, that basically means with the forks fully extended. If you bleed the screws with the forks partially compressed you effectively are reducing the air gap and the travel of your forks as the they will not want to travel back to full extension due to the vacuum effect.

As was mentioned above,
I have been reading this thread, and it appears that you guys are bleeding your forks whilst on the bike or with the bike sitting on the ground.
My understanding is the front of the bike (forks) must be supported so as there is no downward pressure; or else when you bleed it you are effectively reducing the air space.
I am assuming that fork bleeders are same!

[Author]

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