[Eric SmithMember]

Its psychologimical my good man. Sounds faster therefore it is.

A good end-cap for the stock exhaust will make two tenths of bugger-all difference to the power of the thing. Try a B&B end cap, they tend to redirect the gasses and noise rather than restrict it. Makes the bike much more pleasant to ride, because the noise is directed down into the ground rather than straight out the back.

Linkies:

Honda XR400 gear

[Eric SmithMember]

Here’s a pic to save following the link above:

[Eric SmithMember]

Great news – for you! I’ve been trying to get hold of a set, but they seem to be out of stock each and every time I check! Bugger bugger bugger!

[Eric SmithMember]

Thought this was going to be a thread about Anzac day!

Wouldn’t let it worry ya, move on. Obviously the rest of us clowns have! :unsure:

[Eric SmithMember]

I’d be interested at that price Chris.

I’ll check with a few mates, see if they are interested.

[Eric SmithMember]

The things ya miss when working 80 hours a week eh!

Hope it all goes well mate, I’ll catch up with you in the not too distant future.

[Eric SmithMember]

Horses are lovely creatures… I just have trouble whenever I try to fuel them up!!!

What’s the go – maybe they use LPG instead of PULP! :laugh:

[Eric SmithMember]

Moto wrote:

Quote:

I reckon the springs will alone will be fine and will sort most/all of the problem out. I think having the valving done will make it better again but getting it sprung right is half the battle.

I will be interested in your opinion

Well also I figure the springs are the major factor here. There are still clickers to get some adjustment to the oil flow rates – which is what valving does, essentially.

Here’s my thoughts: the spring will set the ride height by how hard it is. The valving and clickers control the rate of movement of the spring and thus the fork. But the valving and clickers will not act differently on the oil flow just because the fork is in a different position. The rate of movement will be affected by the valving and clickers restricting the oil flow – damping the movement of the fork.

So a different (say heavier) spring will cause the forks to naturally sit further extended in any given moment. The rate of the movement will differ only in that in compression the rate of movement should in theory be slower due to the heavier spring, while any movement in the rebound direction may be faster, also due to the heavier spring.

My call on the affect of changing springs and not valves will be that in compression (which is where I currently have a problem) the forks will perform better. While in rebound there may be some added harshness. Given that there are clickers to adjust both compression and rebound damping, this should all be able to be controlled – to some extent at least.

Time will tell!

[Eric SmithMember]

Where’s the lightbulb smiley?

Yeah, got ya TB. I’ll let you know how it goes and, worst case, a valve upgrade might have to be added later on.

[Eric SmithMember]

Mr Blue wrote:

Quote:

Ecks bloody hell man you’ve done the wrong thing and should have taken the bike to a bigger specialist or something. You won’t ever be happy with youry decision and I reckon its a dumb thing to support the local bloke. Onya BC, there had to be someone…

Now someone got that out of the way.

Good stuff Ecks, there are lots of little players that are just as knowledgeable as nationally recognised names, and to use this resource is not only smart, but efficient.

Although from my limited understanding of modern Forks i do tend to agree with TB (been doing this a lot lately, ..reminder must book myself into pyschcologist soon) the valving is most effective in making the system either lineal or progressive in it’s action as this is best undertaken by hydraulic resistance.

But again as i said… what would i know i haven’t done my own suspension work in 15 years.

Yeah Bruce, I hear the message RE valving. However I am thinking that just by having the suspension sitting higher in the stroke, the valving won’t be too bad. I DO like the current plushness in the initial part of the stroke. If that is moved to higher in the stroke it should be a goodly part of the problem solved. I therefore think the problem is mostly the springs because no amount of valve changing will fix this bottoming out problem. My opinion only and it may be madness thinly disguised as the ramblings of a semi-sane individual!

[Eric SmithMember]

Well, it only took me 6 months to get my crap in a pile but the WR is in the shop as we speak – type – whatever!

After a long and hard decision making process (for that, read: procrastination) and scraping funds together, I arrived to a decision while I was at Condo.

A local dealer, Greg Elliot, has been racing the Condo 750 for yonks, possibly since it’s inception. I was talking to him about suspension and it seemed to me that he understood what I wanted – an XR or DR style plushness with resistance to bottoming (not necessarily as per an XR!). Turns out Greg, who runs Morris Motorcycles in Orange, does suspension and we had a long chat about it. Greg thinks, and I must admit I agree, that the valving should be OK but that I will need heavier springs to cart my lardy butt around! Ultimately the suspension at the moment is nice and plush in the bottom of the stroke, but blows through and bottoms out badly on medium jumps or larger. Mostly the forks it has to be said, the rear isn’t too bad.

Now I know some of you blokes will tell me I’ve done the wrong thing and should have taken the bike to a bigger specialist or something. I’m still happy with my decision and think that it is a good thing to support the local bloke if he shows the right attitude. I won’t tolerate bullshit, lies or poor service, but as it stands right now, we’re all good!

So, the results will be forthcoming in a week or two and I will give an honest assessment of what I reckon.

[Eric SmithMember]

Great stuff TB, I did find the distributors list, but had decided by then that its not for me! Worse than a female I am, changing my mind!

You’re still welcome to drive down here though… the beer’s cold! :laugh:

[Eric SmithMember]

Those levers do look a little plastic-ish and they are charging you for zip ties… maybe they are special Kinchrome zip ties, but I prefer to get decent ones. Open-ender/Ring spanners are OK and Kinchrome have decent quality (for the price) spanners and sockets. The only useful thing there I don’t have is the tie wire. I do carry:
[ul]-Multi-tool with allen keys, 1/4 drive sockets in 8, 10 & 12 sizes & screwdriver fittings
-Good quality tyre levers (2 normal, 1 small “spoon” version)
-Puncture repair kit
-Pushbike pump
-Spare front tube
-10 inch Shifter (doubles as a hammer!)
-Pointy nose pliers
-Variable jaw pliers
-Spanners (open-end/ring) in 10, 12 plus open end 14/17
-Zip ties varying sizes
-Insulation tape
-Plug spanner
-Chain master link
[/ul]

Need to get a few critical spare parts to carry like a plug, maybe a brake & clutch lever. Otherwise I reckon it is not a bad setup. I prefer mine in my camelback (Mule) rather than in a bumbag. My bumbag is for my camera, wipe for my goggles, snacks and licence/money if required.

[Eric SmithMember]

No shit TB? That’s great advice right there mate!

I was thinking about getting one, but there’s actually nothing in it that I don’t already carry – and more!

Still, not a bad way to start out building a kit I’d say.

[Eric SmithMember]

Where do you get these? Sutto’s? Online?

[Author]

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