[Eric SmithMember]

I’m giving consideration to the idea of putting a neoprene sleeve over the brake lever, that way it will be like heated grips, only a heated brake lever! (And about as useful!)

[Eric SmithMember]

I have put insulation tape under the kill switch and still get the shock. Apparently this is a common problem and the front brake switch is the source of the shock. Weird I know, but that’s what they say.

[Eric SmithMember]

Yeah yeah we get your point! I think we may have pushed you KTM blokes too far lately!

It is a bloody pain though, hit the brakes and suddenly there’s a shock going up your arm and your fingers want to let go but the brain says “No no no! Gotta stop!!”

Stupid fault, should not happen with modern bikes. Poor show Yamaha!

[Eric SmithMember]

I was wondering where I left that!! Thanks Mick!

[Eric SmithMember]

A quick search on DBW came up with this snippit of info:

Nutty Prof on DBW wrote:

Quote:

…This is very common, the ADR loom takes it’s feed from the US looms’ headlght feed. The clutch has nothing to do with the problem. The voltage at the headlight feed is too much for the insulation at the front brake switch.

The fix is to completely remove the ADR loom and feed the brake switches from the US tail light feed (which doesn’t have a brake light), this requires running a 2 core wire to the front brake switch from the rear brake switch circuit, then wiring both switches in parallel.

Some forums advise to earth the brake light switch but this will draw excess currents to earth from the US looms’ headlight feed, possibly causing cable damage.

A ten minute job for any competent mechanic.

Now all I have to do is find a competent mechanic!:blink:

[Eric SmithMember]

You have to service an XR???????????????

I thought they ran on determination and skidmark residue! No need for servicing!

Hmm, learn something new every day I guess!

[Eric SmithMember]

Must admit I usually drop my oil at about 300. It stretched on the Hill End ride, but that was not as hard as single track work. The oil came out a nice caramel brown, no bits/metal in it. Lovely!

[Eric SmithMember]

Inch and a half here. Hasn’t laid the dust but at least it is better than nothing. We are getting into our ‘dry’ stretch now, bugger-all rain till winter.

A4DE will be dusty for sure!

[Eric SmithMember]

But wait, there’s more! If I pay full price of $60 for 4 litres, or $15 for one litre, the 205 litres of Motul 5100 would cost me $3075 – and then there’s filters! At $7.50 each, if bought in bulk through Ballards, there would be, for the sake of round figures, 170 filters, so that’s $1275 for oil filters. If you buy the filters from Sam Laws in Orange at near enough to $20 each (:ohmy: ) that works out at $3400 just in filters!

Of course, at the rates of km I ride that works out to nearly 20 years of riding… That seems reasonable to me! Love my tight single track riding… 500km between oil changes takes a long time at 80-100km per ride!

But… Damn, it ain’t cheap riding bikes!

[Eric SmithMember]

At 1.2 litres per change that’s 170.8 oil changes! At an average of 400km between changes that works out to be 68333km…

Interesting to see what the saving would be though!

[Eric SmithMember]

Part numbers would be nice. I’ll be at a dealer sometime next week so I’ll ask then.

Check your PM’s by the way.

[Eric SmithMember]

chris72a wrote:

Quote:

Hey Ecks, apparently in my spares kit I have some alternate bolts for when this is removed, I haven’t checked yet but will tonight.

Cheers
Chris.

P.S. Hows the work going.

:angry:
Twit that I bought the bike off… fair dinkum! I’ll see if I can’t track the bolts down elsewhere.

Work’s been cooking for the past two weeks and I’m hoping it continues. Its just so inconsistent, makes it impossible to plan for anything.

Cheers Slug, I’ll look into it too.

[Eric SmithMember]

I tried mine, but it was more complicated than it looks, something like the spacers on the end of the bracket are required in order to bolt the plastics to – I can’t remember. I also have cable ties on mine.

Mick from Catombal bike park has removed his but I haven’t checked to see how he got around the problem.

[Eric SmithMember]

I don’t use lockwire, so things come loose, but not my handgrips. I put insulation tape on the end of the bars, swish some petrol inside the grips and bung them on. The petrol melts the grips and they cure on to the insulation tape and NEVER move! Top tip!

[Eric SmithMember]

Hahaha! Nice, how does the rest of your hand feel about that? Surely it feels betrayed and disappointed? Poor show by your thumb, very poor!:side:

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