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Did you leave out Milk and Cookies?
Cue Intro Theme Song
A week left peoples… chop chop.
Even if you book or just get it too us by months end we’ll do the deal – 20% off. ANY BIKE, ANY SHOCK, ANY FORK.
Don’t forget you WR-F riders with crap forks… there are factory KYB kits left here to fix your fork woes. Installed with service for $220, $221, what ever it takes (plus wear parts).
We have almost sent Paulie postal and the K-unit is hurtin’ with all the work. Help me bury the sombitches.
ER out.
Clarky,
a. how did you know I have a full size chicken suit?
b. how did you know I have tied up a (couple) teachers… and I didn’t leave them (before chat rooms and internets so no one went to jail *wink*)I am now trying to figure out how to have that song played everywhere I enter a room, a la’ pro wrestling introductions.
mofo out
ERMr. Clarky,
Here is the scoop, forget the KTM manual because if they got it right, you wouldn’t have needed to buy a spring from us.
Rider sag is 113-118 which should give you a static sag of around 38-42. Its a bit more than KTM recommends for their straight rates because;
a. their straight rates suck
b. our spring needs to ride down in the travel a bit more than a straight rate to work properly because ours doesn’t suckGet you clickers back in the middle and have a fiddle (with the clickers not yourself). If you feel that the bike looses some of its sharpness in turning, pull the fork legs up one line marking to offset the lowered rear end. RIDE IT first to see, don’t just do it because some Yankee goose on a forum tells you to (me).
Get stuck, give us a call… happy trails.
EROK F.o.T.s (Friends of Teknik), Go to our Face Book page, like us, and post up a pic of your two wheel love with a teknik sticker somewhere on it and you win yourself a fork or a shock service for $120 COMPLETE, final, and no more to pay! Check out our Win tab! If you post, you go in a draw to win a $1500 suspension makeover!
http://www.facebook.com/TeknikRacing
Don’t have a teknik sticker… make one… we don’t care!
*Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer, words spoken and approved by Evil Rudy, Penrith*
For what its worth… Sachs is German for Marzocchi, and Marzocchi is Italian for Shite! AND the 2011 310 has both!
But… here lies the rub… great motor and for the money you save you can have a full upgrade and set up just for you including valving kits (which both front and rear need!), piston kits and springs depending on your weight, and if you do it now you can save 20% from us. I think you’ll do better that the $1100 off if you are ruthless and willing to travel or freight a bike from out of state. Just start ringing Husky dealers and find out who has too many, then put their nuts in a squirrel grip. You’ll do better negotiating for things like bash plates, hand guards and radiator guards thrown in that straight up dollars… I work on single malt commission *wink*nudge*.
The Sachs is no better or worse than the KYB rear end, but the piston to body interface lets it down and under high stress or heat and lets oil flow past the piston instead of through it because of its design. Just about everyone’s piston kit fixes it. The sliding gas piston doesn’t help either. Slow to react on soft / small bumps, our bladder replacement makes it sweet as a nut.
Funny thing is this… our most popular fork kit is for the KYBs on all WR-F because the internals go to shite in 10-15 hours. These are the same forks as the Husky is getting (and has gotten on the 449/511 this year). Guess what will continue to be our most popular fork kit… for Huskys too.
Love and cuddles,
ERRoll up, roll up fellas, we’re here all month…
TB, early progressives did need a revalve, but the Tapered Progressive for the PDS is a straight install and almost like cheating. Reaction is similar to chris’s almost all the time. The times its not, its better than that!
chris72a, your standard springs are cool unless you have an optimistic bathroom scale, but a t-valve kit will fix what ails you. Better progression and bottoming resistance and get back feel in corners without the massive dive, while riding higher in the stroke.
Hugs, less 20% in July only,
ERStarting lineup;
Macka
Phelixpremixer
Tony3 down 7 to go…
Rudy
OK Pedro,
Here’s the goss… if you’re running standard springs, use extra virgin olive oil and fill them completely to the top. They are now 100% better than stock.
Reality is if you use our V4S PD valve and heavier springs go 110mm from the top with 10wt and 25mm of pre-load.
If you are using our V4S and haven’t brazed up the rebound holes use 15wt at the same height.
If you get stuck, give us a call at the shop.
ER
No Sweat Axel,
Hey don’t be too hard on yourself about that last album, I’m sure when you and Slash get back together properly the magic will flow again.
ER
Sorry Mick, they fit single chamber only…
That sounds good. That stuff is awesome for repairs. We even have some titanium Devcon at work. Its the shit.
Let me know how it turns out – add it to our bag of tricks.
Seriously – if you’re wearing out one side – make sure when you button up the front wheel you follow manufacturers specs to the letter. If you get it wrong and the tubes don’t run true, that may be the initial cause.
ER
Hey Roy,
No good answer here. Have never seen it before. Bush wear is age related and or alignment related (improper axle / wheel or something bent). What happens when it gets “loose”?
Maybe call the shop so we can chat. Your right, there is no good way to sleeve those thin tubes. But never say never…
Last problem – rattle can black – $2.99 from Super Cheap or the like.
ER
Same – same Scotto
Called – Sorted.
Happy Days.
Rudy out
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