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I dont think its a good idea to replace them more than needed. You will stretch the hub after a while and then you will have dramas keeping the bearing from spinning in the hub.
Just do it as needed.I have a 450 and just love the power in the open going. I reckon at times in tight rocky stuff a 250 would be heaps better though. I was 30seconds behind a 250 at yellow mountain and I could not catch him over 170km of riding so that says a lot about power in open going as well……
I ride a different coloured 230 as a farm bike. its fun.
I tend to stick to one brand as the special tools you have to make tend to be more similar. Having said that I also have a third brand for my oldest boys bike. Sometimes the brand you prefer just does not make the bike you need.Mine was caused by the jetting being too lean and pinking due to the prolonged high revs apparently. Makes sense, as it pinked on regular fuel but usually when it was lugging in pony express’. I normally use pulp but can not always get it.
I would check the big end in that bike hondahead. The price for parts for mine is $950 with no labour(I will do all the labour).No I bought it new and have only had the head and barrel off it before.
I pulled the flywheel off with an ordinary puller but the crank is going in the bin anyway so I could see it doing damage but wasnt worried. I had a fair amount of trouble shifting it actually. I left it with all the weight on it and when I walked past it about 5 minutes later it popped off with a bang and luckily I caught it before it hit the cement. Scared the crap out of me lol!
Yeah it sux spending money on a bike I was hoping to sell earlier this year. Not worth much as is though.
I think the brass coloured ring fragments were the big end bearing retainer. It and some of the bearing have ground around the crank and the cases. The piston has hit the crankshaft when the rollers droped out of the big end bearing.
Why would a big end fail like this anyway? Is silkolene oil no good?Does this damage inside the crankcase look to terminal?
Cant upload photos, can someone tell me how please?
Anyone?????
Looks like I will have to keep it for a while longer, so has anyone used or know what the 470 stroker cranks are like? Is the extra cost worth it?
Thanks trailboss. Rain here this week so will get a bit of time to pull it all the way down. The bore still has hone marks in it. I put new rings in when the valves went at yellow Mountain 3 years ago. So I would rate the top end as bullet proof if only they had run stainless valves in them from new. As for the bottom end….. not so good.
My old 95 xr400 never missed a beat in 13 years! The CRF smokes it in all other aspects though. WR’s must be tough, but could never own a blue bike though lol! Hang on, there is a TTR 230 in the shed here.
Didnt make top 30, 60km short:angry: I got 51st last year and a DNF the first year as well. me and Yellow Mountain are not mixing to well so far.Thanks for all the quick replies! Helped me heaps already. Now who wants to buy a one lady owner crf45ox, never been raced?
Bob wrote:Just bury it :pinch: :whistle::laugh: Could have buried it on Sunday when it went bang! I was heading for a top 30 finnish:angry:
Bob wrote:jimmy wrote:Not to worried about pulling it down and putting it back together. New crank may be the go. Where has all the brass coloured metal come from?stab in the dark ………….Clutch area ???
Gearbox and engine oil ar seperate so cant be clutch can it?
Not to worried about pulling it down and putting it back together. New crank may be the go. Where has all the brass coloured metal come from?
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