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The 450 class is where 250 2 strokes used to be….. that was what the first yzf450 raced in remember. If they updated 250 2 strokes they will be faster than any 4 stroke 450. The premium 2 stroke class will always be 500. If only they still built them.
The screw driver in the pads trick worked! Great tip thanks!!
If you can go to a 1990 one you will get a rear disc brake.
You could try the Denman Pony Express series next year. Its good fun and casual.
All good tips above!
I was shown that tyre over the rim thing at a Denman pony express. I have never been able to remember how to do it. Got any photos of doing it????
Motoz tyres were the worst I have tried to fit, and it was for a mate…..
The best tip might be to pretend you can’t do it and watch someone else struggle with them….Practice makes it easier. If you get stuck on the side of the trail somewhere it does help to know how to do it your self.
Some tyres are tougher than others to change.
What bike did the wheels come off?So they don’t transfer any load onto your collar bones in a crash?
Ah that makes sense.
I assume the air build up is getting in past the seals? How come its not an issue on the rear shock as well?
Actually, the feeler gauge was inserted and air escaped. The seal was actually sealing well. It was air tight. That would mean only the tiniest bit of crud would have let oil out. So yes air pressure build up would make them leak easier, but I don’t think it would make the seal blow. It was the often the done thing in the earlier years to “pump up” the forks through the bleeder valves. I can remember ADB forever telling people…. the valves are to let air out, NOT to put air in.
When the fork compresses the air space allows compression. You can’t compress a liquid so the air compresses in the fork. The seals handle this no worries. They get hot when you ride, the air pressure will increase as the air expands. So you let the air pressure out when you finnish riding. When the air cools again no doubt a slight vacuum occurs in the fork leg due to the air volume having been decreased. So as soon as you move the bike air is sucked in to the fork to equalise the air pressure(perhaps this is when crap starts to get drawn up under the seal?). When it gets hot you now have even more air in the leg than the last time you rode so it builds up even more pressure than the last time you rode it.
Perhaps the problem is the bleeder valves. You have no idea if the shock is building air pressure when you ride, because they don’t have a bleeder valve. They must do the same thing though.
feel free to shoot holes in my theory any suspension experts out there lol.Basic physics would say that the forks are bolted together and so the load from the brake has to be shared equally between the two fork legs. They don’t work independently of each other. Even if the fork was twisted under load from the brake, the other fork would be twisted equally.
I tend to think the disc throwing crap up the fork leg is the most likely cause as stated earlier.
Air compresses so the tiny amount in the fork leg would have little effect on the seal. Cavitaion of the oil and air mixed together would certainly affect the oils performance though. Thats why they went to nitrogen in shocks in the first place.Agree with above ^^ statement. Air pressure build up would effect suspension action and really not cause seals to start leaking. They don’t actually “blow”. They weep because of crap caught under them.
Why can’t we go back to the old XR style valve style bleeders? They were light years ahead of the agricultural screw idea. Another backward step from motocross bikes, that goes hand in hand with those poxy bolt and nut chain adjusters. No tools required for a valve stem setup. just unscrew the cap and push the valve in. They didn’t leak either.This method works well. Have to do my Berg as the front brakes have gone west after sitting for so long. Why do Brembo brakes loose pressure/get air in them when left sitting? How do you prevent it?
Is the diesel oil cheaper or are people using it just to save on buying different oil for their various vehicles in their shed?
What is the reason??? Seems strange to me to use a diesel oil. Diesels run at very slow revs, extreme temperatures and diesel oil contains detergent.
However, having said that, I have run straight 30 grade diesel oil in all my older farm bikes for years and it has never been an issue, but I always use a quality petrol oil in my dirt bikes.You can’t compare a CRF50 with a KTM 50. The step up is from PW/CRF50 to a fast 50 i.e. a KTM. They are chalk and cheese. The KTM seems like its what you are after if your son has outgrown a PW50. However he won’t last long on a fast 50 either.
My young bloke went straight from a CRF to a KX65 when he was 8 and a half but it shattered his confidence a bit. I was trying to dodge the fast 50 because they drive me nuts at race days. They are a good bike though I have heard the clutch can give you grief. Might be more of a poor maintenance problem though.
So….. skip the CRF and give the KTM a go.I reckon the CRF is a great starting point, not step two. I am not a fan of the pumpkin coloured brand either. I had to cover the ktm bit on my Husabergs compliance plate with black texta lol. -
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