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Cam there are heaps you can do to slow them down but all things cost,some cheap others not so cheap, I have my self tried all these things at one time or another.
They are;
1. Flywheel weights to give the machine more down-low bite and less over-rev
2. Throttle stops in the carby to stop the slide lifting too much and that stops power getting made.
3. Inserts for the exhaust to restrict how fast gas can escape which slows rev rate
4. Thicker base gaskets or two standard ones, this lowers compression and makes less power
5. Vortex ignition that you set on traction, this makes a different ignition curve which slows revs down.
6. Change rear sprocket to 47 or 48 and front to 14
7. Richen carby up and it runs shaggier and lifeless, but will foul plugsMate all these things will be alright in the short term but in the long run they are not conducive to a sweet Katie thats for sure.
Let me know which things you want to know more about and I will go more in depth for you
Mick thats young ***** Norman doing the Huck-a-Buck
Mate I have a Leatt on both my boys and My Mum bought one for me saying “You did it for your boys, so I did it for mine”, and let me tell you do not plan a big ride first up as the adjustment of the rear part that the helmet hits is a real bummer if not adjusted properly, and one other thing I found is it forces you to adopt the correct posture when riding, it all good after about 2 or 3 adjusting sessions and now I dont even know its there, both my boys have had big spills with them on at the races and all is good, my older boy said that he could not ride with the thing and I said that a shame son , but I suppose all your bike gear will sell easy as a whole package deal because no helmet no ride rule applies and the Leatt is the helmet for the neck,and son you wont ride if you dont wear this, needless to say he got used to it 15 mins latter. I think all riders should have one of these braces and I have a retailer in Hawaii that will happily sell to Australia heaps cheaper than the Australian thieves, I mean distributor, I have arranged for several to be got for students at my MX schools and all is good, Dont put a price on your neck it is not easily replaced
Cam , be careful making a MX machine go slow, they are not designed for it and will constantly foul plugs and wear out rings, yes a two stroker not ridden fast enough or not cleared out in the revs will wear out rings and bearings real fast(been there done that- boy number 1), you probably wont like this but no the MX machine does not respond well to go slow riding, get the machine that does the job and be prepared to change to another when needed, be nice to the wife as she will think , “What The!! you just bought the other bike and now you want a different one???”
Cam, I am a MX Coach and have been running schools for a few years now,I think that every rider is suited to different bikes at different times and the hard part is getting the bike to suit the personality, let me explain a little, a beginner around the 6-7yrs needs the soft acceleration that a PW 50 type of machine can offer, but as soon as they start to push them too hard they become dangerous because of no real braking power or suspension,( one of my boy destroyed three PW 50’s before he was big enough to ride a KTM 50) The same goes for your older riders as well, a softer type of bike is ideal up until a certain point, and now for the hard part,that point is effected by the personality or nature of the rider as well, a quite natured rider will not push a machine too hard and therefor will not need anything more than a trail type bike, but a mad lunatic daredevil type of natured rider will soon be demanding more than what a trail type of machine offers and the safest way is to step onto a motocross bike of some type for the better brakes and suspension,but if you jump up too soon the results are not good because you have a rider on a machine way too early for their skill level and then the confidence takes a beating resulting in a learning curve that is slow or worse injury, Mate the Golden rule is to keep confidence and fun levels through the roof, and be prepared to change machines when needed, I hope that helps you in some way,
DaveMick its past midnight and I still have 2 bikes to go, I am going to the working bee tomorrow and am going to try and kill my knee completely, its getting better but slowly, I just dont rest it, I will see you sunday
I also think it would help if I could throw the leg over a bike as well…..so maybe I should say limping like a tiger
Mick you have not seen the Bad Dave yet mate, but your time will come my man, I am waiting…….like a tiger ready to pounce…………
RUM What RUM I thought that was Coke ……I think????
Hey Mick, Brad and I are talking about riding next Wednesday around 9.30am ,surely you are feeling sick and might need a day off, Cowarra, Queens lake, Swanns, lookout then Comboyne for lunch and fuel, Home via Bago, with 200kms done by 2.00pm, home in time for finish of the work day
Steering Dampener by far then fork and shock sorting, controls, brake and clutch up grades, then lastly power, oh and dont forget the tyres
I meant for this to be posted at the bottom not the top,,,
Mick was that Brad that had the chopper ride
Mick was that Brad that had the chopper ride
Holy shit batman, ease up there Mick I only gave you $20 man
The easy way guys is to look at the stamp on the rims and thats the year it was made, I of course have to put on special glasses to enable me to even look at bikes that are not orange, but I do remember from my blue days that this was the sure fire way to identify year models, the only loose link to the plan was if someone changed wheels on you, you really dont need to worry about models too much when chasing parts for them because the buggers have not changed for a gazillion years, Hope that helps
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