[Geoff ForshawMember]

Hey there Unit,
They are usually sold as a kit, Sutto’s sells them, and it includes the O-ring, Spacer and seal. The spacer is required as the seal eventually wears a groove in the spacer. It doesn’t come with the washer from memory.

Cheers,
Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Thanks Gents

Motobatt Battery installation. (2008 EXC)

I just thought that I would show a couple of pics for the installation of the new battery as it required a bit of a change. As the Motobatt is larger in capacity than the std battery from 5A/hr up to 7A/hr. If the battery cables were terminated on the top of the battery the seat wouln’t fit so I had to do a couple of mods so the terminals were now at the sides of the battery. At the same time I also ran a fused power supply to the front of the bike for futrure power requirements, this also allows me to plug directly in to the battery for charging.
Take a look

Power supply at Bars

Cheers,
Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Hey Crow,
Nice looking ride that you have got there mate. I am currently converting my Kato to do the same, both Adv and Enduro and I was wondering where you get the Hahn cush drive rear hub from and at what sort of approximate cost.

Cheers,
Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

No Sorry PTW.

I Use a TM Design rear chain guide which you can replace the chain wear pads they are made from a hard type nylon material and in combination with a Bullet Proof Design swing arm guard they are the ducks guts. I can get one for you but it will be a few weeks wait until I get another order of BPD Radiator guards etc.

Cheers,
Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Yeah, no worries mate. Good luck with it. If you need to get the head done let me know as there is only one place to get it done properly.

Cheers,
Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

white rocket wrote:

mmmmm spit roast sounds the go how many stubys do you want bob

mmmmmm I second that motion Rocket! We need to work out a deal I reckon. :whistle:

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Gibbit wrote:

Lefty wrote:

Hi Gibbit,
Just a word of caution. I noticed that you said one of the exhaust valves was leaking and you sealed it by using a bit of grinding paste. As I am a race engine builder with many years of experience with late model Yamaha cylinder heads using titanium valves. Assuming you are using the standard titanium valves they should never be lapped in using grinding paste as this wears through the hardened coating on the valve sealing face and causes premature inevitable loss of valve clearance. The best solution is to replace the valves with brand new ones and check for no valve seat wear.
Just some advice for you, however the choice is yours. Good luck with the rebuild.

Cheers,
Lefty

Thanks for the advice mate. I have heard that before. I checked the valve was leaking by pouring a bit of petrol in there to confirm the leak. The valves where only about 15 hours old so I pulled that valve out and just gave it a bit of a 15 second rub with some paste by hand. That is all. I put it back in and checked it with petrol again and it sealed.

Do you think I may have done damage to the valves doing such a small amount of grinding?

I guess I wil find out next time I check my valve clearances.

Hey Gibbit,

Hard to tell mate to be honest as the coating is half a micron thick but it is a good chance of damage.
Put it this way if it were me and I was going to the trouble of a full rebuild before the Finke I would be putting a full set of valves in it. I would be pretty pissed off with myself if I rode the first leg to Finke and then the f#$*er won’t start for the return leg! Or worse drop a valve! :ohmy: It looks like you are going the whole hog on the rebuild……
Just putting it out there for consideration, but it’s up to you.
I hopre this advice helps and good luck with it all mate.

Cheers,
Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Bump!

just thought that I would put it back out there

Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Hi Gibbit,
Just a word of caution. I noticed that you said one of the exhaust valves was leaking and you sealed it by using a bit of grinding paste. As I am a race engine builder with many years of experience with late model Yamaha cylinder heads using titanium valves. Assuming you are using the standard titanium valves they should never be lapped in using grinding paste as this wears through the hardened coating on the valve sealing face and causes premature inevitable loss of valve clearance. The best solution is to replace the valves with brand new ones and check for no valve seat wear.
Just some advice for you, however the choice is yours. Good luck with the rebuild.

Cheers,
Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Hey there Strucky,

Hope you had a Great Birthday Mate.

Cheers,

Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBF6iZfguF0

Bet ya this bloke had an explosion too……… In his pants :dry: :whistle: :laugh:

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Thanks again everyone for your your wishes.

I am just about to knock the top of a goodie now Kat :woohoo: Oops! Drink I mean! You know….. :blush: :whistle:

Hope to catch up with everyone in June.

Cheers,
Lefty

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Thank you to everyone for their Birthday wishes, and I can’t wait to catch up with everyone on the OBT Birthday ride. :woohoo: :woohoo:

Cheers,

The Left One

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Hey Adam,

It is a tad wet eh. Good size pool that you have there, you might want to turn on the filter though!! :laugh: :laugh:

[Geoff ForshawMember]

Hey Jak,

Oops! Link now on opening post.

Cheers,

Lefty

[Author]

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