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Put me on the list please TB, I have no idea what my roster will be then (bloody management) so will have to put in some annual leave just in case :dry:
yep bike internals normally look good, you really need to know what and where to look to see any wear and XR’s are built strong that’s why they last so long (and so heavy :laugh: ), i doubt you have any other problems, what you found would have been causing your issue, any wear on then actuating arm could be adjusted out with the cable I would imagine
yes I say dump it also as it will have metal in it,change the oil filter now also, at least you now know both have been done correctly, if all is how you described I am confident you have fixed it, let us all know how you get on
also once back together you still may have to adjust the clutch cable as things will have changed, just do it as the manual says leaving a bit of cable free playcool, new tyres for me this week, rode up there last monday and it was very wet but heaps of fun, look forward to meeting you all on Sunday
yep I would think that oil will be ok, just warm her up a bit as XY has said, I ran Delo 400 truck oil 25-50 in my 550 Berg for 200hrs with no problems, also be best to wait for the right part but maybe one of the XR boy’s on here may know of another washer that would fit
hey Chris
Sorry about this but where is the pine camp ground, I am a Portland boy and ridden Clarence a bit but never heard of it, is it the Bungle Borrey camp ground near the turn off to Black Fello’s hand road
thankscan you pull the basket out, maybe the dill put the thrust washer under the basket
sounds like you found the problem, the centre and basket need to be apart somewhat, i would think the thrust washer would be only a couple of mm thick, without it your clutch would be binding just as you said, have you got something (just to experiment) you can put in there, so you can loosly put it back together to see if it fixes the problem (without starting)as you will probably have to order the correct thrust washer.
your oil filter will be full of metaljust so i understand what you are looking at, are you locking at the clutch picture from the manual i sent you, on my picture you can quite easily see the difference between the washer under the lock nut and the thrust washer
you should be able to buy it, sure it is not stuck to the back of the clutch centre, they can stick on pretty well, the basket and centre would have been binding together badly.
yep put it back together, shuffle all the plates up and put them back in, but in the right order,(friction, steel, friction,….) that has worked before for me on an old yamaha, change the oil, she will hopefully be good!!
OH don’t over tighten the bolts holding the springs, easy to bust the alloy posts
Change the oil filter for piece of mind, while you have the clutch cover off i think there is a oil strainer in the bottom of the sump,check it.
If the clutch is actuating like you say it, that has basically proved the actuating side of things is fine, sounds more like the steel plates are warped, if all are slightly warped the combinded amount could cause your problem, it is common to see one or two steels to be discoloured (bluey) the outer most steels on my Berg are always the blue ones.
The clutch nut should be torqued up, but most just do it up with the rattle gun back to where it was when it was removed, use a bit of loctite 243 and bend the tabs back over on the lock washer
did you check out possible other causes of your original problem, ie; brakes sticking, wheel bearingsI would not worry about the semi circle things, never heard of them, just stagger them anyway, make sure you follow the manual in regards to steel, fibre plate placement, I think the steel goes in first then fibre and so on, once you have them all in and the pressure plate and springs all bolted in try the lever again, how much movement do you get, if you put your hand on top of the pressure plate and pull in the clutch lever you should feel say about 5mm of easy movement, that will prove that it is actuating far enough, so should be good
SYCO check with the manual re putting the plates back in just to be sure they were in properly in the first place, do as Ollie says, measure the fibre plates, springs and check the steel plates as per the manual, dosen’t take much of a warp in all the steels to cause binding in the clutch
Also be careful with the clutch fingers, don’t wedge anything in them to hold it while you undo the nut, many people have done this and busted the fingers off, rattle gun is best both off and on if you don’t have the correct tools
Don’t want to sound silly but does the bike roll easily out of gear, sure something silly like wheel bearings or even brakes are not an issue, if not here’s a manual I found that may be of some use.
download manual here
http://hondatech.info/search/XR/600R/
I think most models are the same.As Ollie has said your problem sounds more like warped clutch plates, if/when you go to remove the clutch cover, lay the bike on it’s side, tape the kick start shaft to save the seal, when the clutch cover is off, pull in the lever and see if it is actuating the pressure plate enough.
This will prove the clutch actuation side of things is working correctly -
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