[Steve WyethMember]

You can delete this after you’ve read it but please consider the point of any thread asking for help is to provide it to the original poster. You can see from reviewing the posts all the unnecessary tech stuff did was to confuse the original poster.

Like almost all other areas of this site I won’t bother posting here anymore either as it always turns this way.

[Steve WyethMember]

Maybe so, but it requires the division of one number by another to give easy comparison between different gear ratio’s. As is evident by the posts following my first it seemed to help some people, which is after all the point of the thread in the ‘tech help’ section.

When racing you have so much experience around a team that you don’t need to work out final drive’s. You KNOW what gearing you need to run for different terrains and you would have spent many years testing to get that knowledge and experience.

That’s the difference between race teams and the average joe that we are talking about here. My post was to help people on this site better figure out gearing, not tell race teams how to do it.

Let’s leave your race team experience to the racers

[Steve WyethMember]

That just makes him sad, not committed

[Steve WyethMember]

Why toque multiplication was even mentioned is beyond me. We are supposed to be giving advice to a average Joe (no offense Boonster) dirt bike rider. Like a lot of other threads someone has asked what is a relatively simple question and has been provided with wild answers.

Torque multiplication matters on a BMX because the 45Kg boy riding it puts out about 0.2 horespower and needs every single mechanical advantage he can muster. This can be considered an ‘extreme’ end of the scale where a small mechanical advantage can make a noticeable difference. At the other end, drag cars, high powered engine etc. it is also noticeable as the they measure performance down to 1000th’s of a second.

Let’s be honest, torque multiplication makes f’ all difference on dirt bike when changing from a 13,14 or 15 tooth front sprocket.

If you are going to worry about that there are heaps on other things like, fairing drag coefficients, tyre pressure, bike weight, rider weight and heaps of other factors that can be looked at and have a more noticeable effect on performance.

Remember we are giving advice to dirt bike riders, not moto GP riders.

[Steve WyethMember]

I can vouch for his beer, it’s the best homebrew I’ve tasted and better than most tap beers too!

[Steve WyethMember]

Happy Birthday Crash you old bugger!

[Steve WyethMember]

I’m very confident you should run the largest front you can get away with. I don’t see how torque multiplication is really a factor here. Changing to a bigger front sprocket and adjusting the rear sprocket so that you have the same final ratio does not effect the ‘torque multiplication’ in my opinion.

Torque multiplication is more commonly referred to in the truck and performance car world when specifying/adjusting/operating torque converters. Torque converters are most commonly used on vehicles with a automatic transmission.

[Steve WyethMember]

Trailboss wrote:

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Thats true but a larger front will alter the torque multiplication
TB

Can you explain this some more please?

[Steve WyethMember]

XRTRAILHACK wrote:

Quote:

so I have a final ratio of 2.78 is that ok :blush:

Sure if that’s what works for you. There is no right or wrong. Nobody can say you shoul be using 3.2225554282 because it’s about what you like.

The ratio only really helps you understand the level of change from one gear ratio to another. People will say that 13/47 is the same as 14/50 (generally it is) but if you eork them out you will find that often they are slightly different.

The ratio also allows you to use the biggest front sprocket whilst maintaining the same final drive. A bigger front sprocket will reduce chain wear. If you like 13/47 (for example) you’d have a final drive of 3.615, so you could say well, if I change to a 14t front sprocket to gear longer sprocket life, what rear sprocket should I run.

Now you know the ratio you like it’s easy to work out. Take you 3.615 and multiply it by 14 which gives you 50.615. Therefore, a 51 tooth rear sprocket would give you a very similar ratio albeit ever so slightly more acceleration and less top end. If this bothered you, you could use a 50 instead.

The point is knowing the ratio’s gives you the option to make informed decisions about your gearing.

Sorry for another long post :blush:

[Steve WyethMember]

Boony wrote:

Quote:

now that poses the million dollar question,,whats the ratio difference from runnning your 13/47 against my 14/50??????this what I am trying to figure out???

Boony.

Boony, an easier way to accurately determine which ratio you should run with and the difference between them is convert them to their base ratio. Whilst sounding complicated it couldn’t be easier.

You simply divide the rear sprocket size by the front sprocket size.

So a 13/50 combo is 50/13 = 3.846
14/47 = 3.357
14.50 = 3.571

and so on…

The lower the ratio the more top speed you will carry, but at the expense of acceleration and vice versa as the ratio increases.

Use this as a way to calculate the small difference in gear ratio’s between the sprockets you are using and I would run the largest front sprocket you can at a ratio you are happy with to reduce wear.

Finally, the drive chain is only a portion of how your bike reacts to sprocket changes. Your bike has set gear ratio’s (internally in the gear box) for each and every gear. It also has what’s called a final drive ratio.

Your final drive ratio and individual gear ratio will likely be different to other bikes, but not other DRZ’s. Therefore, using the same sprockets as say Murph, on his big ass 525 with significantly more power and a different final drive won’t help.

Trial and error to get what you like, then use the calculated ratio to adjust to your liking. I hope this helps

[Steve WyethMember]

You mean an FPSO Ollie Which one? It’s not Ocka is it, the new one? I’m travelling out to the Cossack Pioneer next month….

[Steve WyethMember]

Happy Birthday dude, I hope you have many more happy years to come.

[Steve WyethMember]

menace wrote:

Quote:

moto wrote:

Quote:

Apparently the KX450F fork seals are a better fit for the KTM/Husaberg forks and offer less friction too for anyone else considering this.

where’d ya hear that Mo’oh, im about to get mine done. might be a goer

Yeah rocket got it. I saw Terry Hay mention it in a thread on DBW

[Steve WyethMember]

Nice report and vid Scottie, glad to see the camera going well. Watching the vid brought back the memories, sweet loam.

My two favorite bits are the run down to that big fallen tree towards the little bridge and the tighter twisty section following the main road back to the Pacific highway. Although the windrow section just after the loose downhill is pretty fun too, oh and log hop section shouldn’t be left out either……

Shame you couldn’t have had a go at the widowmaker. Was the 2 stage hill before the widowmaker the one me and Champo got king of the hill on with drop off to the left?

[Steve WyethMember]

Some of the best fun I have when home alone only needs on hand…..admittedly two fit better though.

[Author]

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