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axel wrote:
Quote:Quote:my poor old mangled radiators:blink: :blink:
Yeah I know where your mind went Axel, but there’s no cooling issue with the radiators themselves it NEVER EVER boils at the radiators, no matter what, and they are twisted (not as badly as they should be) not missing core bits or fins anything.
If after the next little spending spree I can, i may buy a trailtech with inbuilt temp gauge and put the sensor in close to the head outlet and keep an eye on the incoming/outgoing coolant.Yamaha dirt bikes have floating discs standard.. obviously it was the original disc as with that amount of mechanical nouse it wouldn’t be modded, so maybe a yamaha owner (bloody ‘ell they’ll let anyone play the tuning forks these days)
BC
champo35 wrote:
Quote:i want my elsinore 50 back.My second bike was a MR50, top little bike only surpassed by the DS80 for longevity in my 6 siblings hands, the z50 only lasted two of my brothers before they killed it :ohmy:
BC
Sounds like a good idea, I’ve got a pair of ACD radiator braces coming from the UK that allow full flow through my poor old mangled radiators, the beauty i=of these braces is by the looks I can mount a fan with no obstructions.
Got quite a few dead computers at work too, so fans should be a cinch.
BC
I s’pose my daughter dips french fries in soft serve, but waffles are waffles, and that is that…although apple or bannana fritters are better with ice cream.
life is meant to be enjoyed (within limits of course) so we should enjoy it.
BC
I bent one of the original nifty fifties back in the mid-eighties, it didn’t like the curb jumping….or the BMX track i took it round. What is the weight limit on one of them recommended by the factory anyway?
BC
menace wrote:
Quote:i reckon that chain looks phat…..it is attached to a kato after all;)Seems to be a trend that……………..
Fat things on Kato’s that is.
BC
Lads on the Crf250X and F I believe it’s the front sprocket to case clearance that is the issue and they run a “T” ring chain to compensate, this is what i was told by a bloke who I trust to know..Robo had one he’d know for certain.
BC
I have left the squish at 1.86 MM which is way below optimum this time, to maybe counteract any nasties, and the higher bar cap I have done after my first bush outing on the bike, helped alot doesn’t boil at all and admittedly the S/T was a virgin kangaroo run, so yep outside of design parameters.
Just trying to stimulate some serious tech discussion while I’m bored as well I guess.
It sux having swine flu……
BC
You’re right T/B I was just explaining to Axel why I believe it is so, anyway the bore is on it’s last piston change now, so next time I’ll go back to an “A” sized slug and start all over again or maybe go to a forged unit, because it ain’t an F1 engine, but I do like it to be right, anyway no matter what still better to be liquid cooled than not, I remember my old seizures from the air-cooled smokers, not good fun.
Was thinking a fan, but what the hell just something else I can wreck on it then :blush:, I’ll just ride faster instead, and put the fan on me .BC
i’ve gone back on the engine ice, as while it has a far higher boil point as someone pointed out it doesn’t transfer heat as well as water. Axel the reason I am going along the hotspots is that all engines have them, ask TB, and some worse than others they have flow “deadzones” and bypass areas, sandcasting the barrels has engineering limitations and as well know everything is made to a market driven pricing system. Now usually if you run stock jetting/carburettion systems they run phat on the mixture which will help hide these issues, lean out the mixture to around the correct stoichometric ratio ato rerelease some ponies and they start to rear their ugly little heads. Mine runs about 4 pilot sizes beneath factory setup and the needle has a completely different taper (tri-tapered JD) which gives it unbelieveable boogie of idle, but also because it is burning more efficently and I run a very close tolerance skirt/bore ratio there is far more heat to be carried away, and any (notice I didn’t say “if”) deadspots in the cooling systems will be overtaxed and localised “steam pockets” can result, steam doesn’t do anything for heat transfer in this situation and so that area expands exponentially until something gets hurt.
This is why some of the old 24hr le-mans rotaries (which they outlawed in that race) had liquid cooled exhausts, to help get heat away from the exhaust ports where there were problems at high speed running.
Now a well tuned 2T has a fresh charge running back into and back from the pipe so the upper/large section of the port should be getting some incoming charge cooling, but the auxilary ports- (like the katos screw type) two sub-ports maynot benefit from this backwash of fresh mixture and it becomes superheated….easy fix= richer jetting, downside poorer performance.These are some of the problems as i understand them, the fix is what rat and Bull have been working on, and from memory the GM silver and gold series screamers had similar issues back in the day.
BC
Trailboss wrote:
Quote:I wanted to wear one for safety reasons and cant because I have no neck! :laugh:TB
I too was neckless for years, but after my recent 14kg weight loss I found it again been missing since my teens, and I’m not sure i like it, however I see two evs’ in our future, one for the lad and one for his dad.
BC
Ollies tip is a goer for every stock carbied RMX I’ve heard of, the basic problem with the RMX is the beancounters decided which carburettor was to be fitted, so they fitted the cheapest one availiable, apparently originally designed for methanol applications and WOT running. However it is a good point about top end condition, one of the better indicators is cold starting issues.
Gotta run, gotta put my new top-end back together now. Mine was fairly shagged but still starting cold first kick.
BCee
Ok not just us then, but quick Q? these are ten year old CSA mags, which i always thought were aussie, but you then know what asumptions are based on, rumour and innuendo.
BCee
white rocket wrote:
Quote:did you work out why it picked up on the bore is it runing lean or sucking air in somewhere just wondering from my limited experiance theres always a reasonNo air leaks, the jettings a little fat down low so I’m pretty sure it is the aforementioned “hotspots” that we’ve been yapping about elsewhere on here. I’ve had other 2T watercoolers do this over the years in similar areas. I’m ptting a close tolerance piston in today/this week so I’m probably going to run engine ice in the cooling system as well.
I knew something had gone wrong and better safe than sorry.
bc
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