[DeanMember]

Very Perty Pete:laugh: Its a shame its going to be pissing down all weekend:angry: The bike looks good from the side view, I guess I will see the underside soon enough:silly: :laugh:

Ollie

[DeanMember]

Austblue wrote:

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Ollie wrote:

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Thanks Murph, I have the height adjusting tool already, and will make up a fork seal driver tomorrow.

cheers Ollie

Are these tools absolutely necessary to replace your fork seals? I had my forks rebuilt and they were pissing out after one ride so I was going to redo the seals myself but don’t have the tools.

Not neccessary but make the job easier and are there for future jobs,easy enough to mahe up

ollie

[DeanMember]

Moto wrote:

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Austblue wrote:

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I assume you’re talking about the levers moto?

I just bought a set of ultimate levers from ballards $32/pair and they have wrench cut outs on them.

Yeah I was. Other I have seen with spanner holes in the end as well.

Fairplay for bothering to have a go though I guess Maybe I should get off my fat arse do some stuff like this…..

Only if photo’s and Video evidence is provided as evidence:laugh:

Olly

[DeanMember]

Yeh Mal you should have spoken up mate. I have let quite a few of the Boys ride Gassy:laugh: Most seem to like it.

Menace I knew you would appreciate my simile:laugh:

Ollie

[DeanMember]

yep no worries just letting Moto know that my tyres are the cheapest.
I was impressed with how the front/rear combo went on Saturday, tyre pressure plays such a vital role,you must adjust according to the conditions;)

Ollie

[DeanMember]

Moto wrote:

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Sutto’s did me a great deal, I think it was reduced $89 from $99 but Mal did it even cheaper for me at $85! Cheapest front typre you’ll buy

I dont agree, 75 bucks from meB)

Ollie

[DeanMember]

Thanks Murph, I have the height adjusting tool already, and will make up a fork seal driver tomorrow.

cheers Ollie

[DeanMember]

Jeffro wrote:

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Nice report there mal5.1, sounds like a big weekend for you, shame about the mechanical dramas though. We (the Lotsa’a pub group) saw you guys at the end of the day, Murph was still at the camp ground packing up and we passed Ollie on the road as he drove out, I gave you a wave Ollie as you drove past when we stopped to regroup. We were just making our way back to the cars and were about to hit a couple more singles along the way.

Well there you go Jeffro:laugh: I thought we may bump into you guys. Gili was saying I wish these guys would hurry up and get around us,didnt know it was you:laugh:

Ollie

[DeanMember]

Always welcome for a ride Trent, will do another one in the near future I am sureB)

Ollie

[DeanMember]

xy-transit wrote:

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over the top? of our heads?

nar all good info. next time i fire up the forge i’ll harden AND temper the levers and see how they go.

i tried my old man’s car levers and they are just too thick! and bruised the rear rim. they are not a flat profile, rolled sides ( if that makes any sense ) o==o um looks something like this:blush:

i’ll have some time to get it right as i now have to wait until i get the locks.

Dont need nothing flash,you can pick them up from the local bike wrecker for a couple of bucks each,or bike shops will sell them to you for about $20 bucks each

ollie

[DeanMember]

Hey Xy going back a few to many years when we did Blacksmithing in our apprenticeship,, there is two things you must do 1, is to Harden and 2, is to temper

#

First you need to understand why steel needs to be tempered. To understand that you must understand the process before tempering, hardening. First metal is worked into the shape of what it is to become. After the metal is shaped into a tyre lever it needs to be hardened. To harden the metal its is heated till its orange hot. Then the metal is quenched in clean water. The super heating and rapid cooling make the metal very hard. However it also makes the metal very brittle. Sometimes you want the metal hard. In our case a brittle tyre lever would be a bad thing. As soon as you applied to much pressure to the flat tip it would crack breaking the tip. This is where tempering is needed.
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Step 2

After hardening the flat tip of the tyre lever, we have made it very hard and brittle. Now we must temper the point. To do this slowly heat up the tip of the tyre lever. A blue line of heat will appear on the metal as the temperature rises and travels down the shaft of the lever. When you see this you have reached the correct temperature for tempering. Place the shaft on a metal surface and allow it to cool slowly. After its cool your tyre lever is tempered.
#
Step 3

The tempering process has taken most of the brittleness from the steel. Allowing you to apply pressure and not have the tip crack and shatter.

We did use oil as well in my time,basically it is used to soften the shock of the quenching process. The temperature of the oil is raised to about 50 degrees C and the metal is quenched after reaching the desired temperature you remove the metal from the oil when it reaches a straw color. The grains of the metal are aligned symmetrically to provide maximum strength.
Hope all of this info is not to over the top and any one who is better informed can correct me if they want.

ollie

[DeanMember]

Trailboss wrote:

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Ollie wrote:

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saw this on another site that I frequent, thought it may be of interest, I especially like the way the mechanic is removing the oil:laugh:

Ollie

http://easterndirt.com/?p=6

Is this in the right section Ollie as this is the only thread we want treated seriously as its the place people need help or share experience?

See rules for tech help at the top of the post list in tech help

If it is good job, but you know why I asked

TB

Yep I posted it because it may help someone out especially Yamaha and kawasaki owners (Kayaba forks)The Denim cut off shorts are a bonusB)

[DeanMember]

ECKS-Man wrote:

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Those utes were a good old banger Al, they are prone to gearbox problems so if towing don’t use 5th gear. They are solid and people underrate them because they don’t have a Toymota badge on them. Check it out as best you can, if the engine and gearbox are solid and the tray is good, then make him an offer. $6000 for a LPG/petrol 4WD is not bad buying I reckon!

Mine is only 2wd it had 55000 k’s on it when I bought it in 2004 I paid $14000 (new $23000) I then had a Parnell injected gas system fitted for $3500 which has now paid for itself. Ute has now got 110000k’s on it.

I saw on Ebay fully refurbed gearboxs for $1100

[DeanMember]

Trailboss wrote:

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Puddles wrote:

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Hey Bull put Ollie down as a possibility he just needs to check dates

Best he make sure he turns up with good tyres so he doesnt have that debacle changing one at Bulls’s again , pinched tubes, cant fit a patch, fit the wheel the wrong way Maybe an instruction manual :laugh: and a Michelin ollie

TB

well thats the way Mick tells the story over and over again laughing his head off

Yeh dont let the truth get in the way of a good story:laugh: Typical newshound exaggeration:laugh: First time I have used a patch for a while:laugh: I will have to go practice now as I picked up another flat rear on yesterdays ride:angry:

Ollie

[DeanMember]

Trailboss wrote:

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P-Dub wrote:

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Trailboss wrote:

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Great bike P-Dub

TB I really love this bike and would love to hold onto it but I cant afford to have 2 I like to ride tight singletrail and think I’d be better off with a small bore 4 stroker.

Yeah and then theres the other more important reason, that is to get rid of that rear tyre I would sell my bike as well rather then try another :laugh:

Nah good luck with the 250 mate, real clean filters and skins mate

TB

Dont Worry Pdub the fish arnt biting tonight:laugh:
Nice try Rex:laugh:

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