[StuartMember]

The last time we rode Yarrhappini the Lantana had taken most of the trails over on the western side in the State Forest (badbowie was ripped off his bike on the run up to the towers).

The eastern side the National Parks had graded the majority of tracks including this hill, it was still a little tricky but an easy run to the top.

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Better riding on the other side of the highway IMHO & over to Taylors Arm

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[StuartMember]

white rocket wrote:

Quote:

mal definatly put a good show on STM thats a bugger of a hill those ruts lead you into a fallen tree now that stuffed me up got up eventually very untidy but

Your back tyre sounded like a chainsaw trying to cut through the roots

[StuartMember]

For those of us that decided not to ride up Slate Hill last Saturday, heres a clip of Christophe Barriere-Varju ( he’s ridden a couple of Dakars) having a go @ the A4DE. I’ve been up it, so has badbowie, Mal went up during the A4DE as well (might be him in the video).

http://vimeo.com/11194728

[StuartMember]

mal5.1 wrote:[/quote]

And Crash was a nano second off hooking your van up to the big girl with the snatch strap before you guys turned around. We had to hold him back. :laugh: [/quote]

We saw Ghostrider with the strap at the ready, the clay out there is slippery.

The afternoon ride was a lot of fun, shame about the rain.

No more big hills Ghostrider well only a couple :laugh:

We need to do another group ride at the afternoon pace, maybe Clarence?

Tom, shit he hit the ground hard :ohmy: had a front row seat for that one, for a change it wasn’t me or badbowie

[StuartMember]

Action wrote:

Quote:

Thanks sb_250y, I’ve watched the video, got to about 2mins into the first one ticked all the boxes. My levers don’t look like his. I’ve got two short ones and, as per ‘white rocket’ the old rear is a Mitas, that might be the problem and God only knows how longs its been on (I’ve had the bike for a few months)
So do I buy a second set of levers (long) or go to the bike shop… (Blood pressure is still high)
Cheers
Action

Short or long it doesn’t matter, although a third lever can be helpful.

Put the wheel/tyre out in the sun to warm it up, this wil make the job easier. Put the new tyre out in the sun as well before you fit it, it might go on without levers if you are lucky.

Definitely make sure the bead is in the dish of the rim opposite to where you are trying to lever from.

[StuartMember]

Everyone has their own favourite method, this works for me.

He sums it up, if your stuggling you are doing somerhing wrong.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw0B2gIwbBg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTatadVNA-c&feature=channel

[StuartMember]

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/moto_x_brake_pads/index.shtml

Good info here.

I run Goodridge pads which are relabelled EBC

They work a little better when hot, last forever in mud although they might chew the disc a little more than others

[StuartMember]

Would have liked to be there, unfortunately I’m away on the Mid North Coast & will be out at sea fishing…..

Hopefully the bridge will be in place, a lot of work went into the bridge & makes it much easier to get home.

[StuartMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Thanks 2banger I will watch your thoughts with interest, a few questions if I could?

Where does one purchase such tyre?

How much is said tyre?

What pressure did you run during the recent wet Sunny Corner ride?

Cheers TB

Eurotred are the distibutors.

Any shop that has Bridgestone should be able to get hold of them

http://www.eurotred.com.au/Products/tyres/viper/default.aspx

[StuartMember]

I started something with the wire pliers & T bar set

Heaps of special there.

[StuartMember]

Thanks Mal, great day even though it was extremely wet.

Good to ride some new trails, did you make us ride in circles so we could never find them again?

Spent the afternoon cleaning Sunny Corner from my bike.

[StuartMember]

Jeffro wrote:

Quote:

I was looking at one of them on ADV but didn’t know if they were any good. So they are ok then are they? I just bought a new bracket for my GPS , actually I bought a few goodies for the Weestrom, Radiator guard, higher front guard, Andystrapz and the waterproof overgloves, just got to fit them. [img]http://obtrailriders.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/CIMG0001.JPG[/img]

The waterproof overgloves are the go in rain, I was sceptical till I tried them. 2 weeks of rain touring Tasmania they were brilliant when used in conjunction with heated grips.

A kiwi I work with told me after I’d bought mine they are made/wholesaled in NZ & they are cheaper to buy them direct rather than through Andy.

[StuartMember]

40k’s is less than 2/3 of 67.3k. I can do maths no problem

Never said I rode at extremely high speeds all the time, all taken out of context

Someone quoting stuff without knowing or having riden with me, is the point I was making.

I don’t prejudge other peoples ability & style so they can leave mine alone

[StuartMember]

Bundyroy wrote:

Quote:

I reckon SB would be very surprised what his average speed is. Most enduro bikes I know, even counting blokes that race are lucky to get an average speed of over 40 km/hr.

I’m not sure how much difference a cush drive makes but riding a standard wr on the tar at a constant speed even feels wrong. I guess this would change a bit if my bike was geared for tar speeds.

.

Be very careful stating information about someone you don’t know, I know what my averages are. I did say my bike had been held wide open for long periods though. Unlikely anyone would do this for any period of time using it as an ADV ride. With the correct gearing they will happilly sit on 120k

If you want to try a cush Drive WR you are more than welcome to try mine. I have done an 500km ADV ride on my old WR without Cush with motard wheels & I know the difference.

[StuartMember]

Aaron wrote:

Quote:

Thanks for the tips Stuart. Why do they want you to torque the bolts then go 1/2 more? Is that to get a crush on the gaskets. I hate doing up bolts on bikes it feels like they are going to let go.I normally do it up till it strips, then back it off half a turn :laugh: Now I am trying to get the cam chain on the two cams and the chain is so tight I cant get it over them. The tensioner is not even on the bike :unsure: ! Once again the stupid manual does not say how difficult something is. example. Put the tire on the rim insert the mousse tube,then put the other bead in….. Yeah right. I would rather have a crappy book that actually told me how to do things than a really flash one with how to do it in four different languages.

Not sure how your doing the Cam chain bit, Have you got the cams installed? I found it doesn’t work this way, you need to have the cams out of the head, install the exhaust valve without caps installed then the inlet in a twisting sort of motion.

It may take a couple of goes to get the timing marks lined up. then install the caps once all is in place & lined up

The torque settings on the caps are minimal, I had my doubts as the are only just nipped up, needless to say my bike is still running (following Yamahas settings).

Your right about the manual, they have you flicking through for different steps, not just one simple A-Z of top end o/haul.

TB would be the man for explanation on stretching bolts for torque.

[Author]

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