Carl

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  • in reply to: Choke lever #181914

    Carl
    Member

    Cheers mate. Got held up today so I didn’t get a chance to try it, hopefully tomorrow.

    in reply to: Choke lever #181867

    Carl
    Member

    Thanks TB. As for the ” lean it over at 90 degrees on the side stand ” how do you lay it over on the side stand? Do you mean to lean it over to the left or to the right side? Also is that a pain in the butt in town? Like around shopping malls and such? Not to mention looking like a dick with your bike on the ground. I’ll give it a go though and see what happens.
    The chock plate has already been changed over to the plat style so should be good.
    Thanks for the reply

    in reply to: Good score I think #178825

    Carl
    Member

    Nah I don’t know what I’m doing Fester but I will do a hell of a lot of reading and get help when ever needed and fingers crossed she will be a good bike.

    in reply to: Sepo XR400 Rebuild #181138

    Carl
    Member

    Nice looking bike you have Krusty. Looks awesome. I really like the look of the xr’s with the cr shrouds. What is the build quality like of the Aloop kit? All fit good with no issues?

    in reply to: Good score I think #177394

    Carl
    Member

    wmc you gotta love the free stuff, I’m all for it as long as it ain’t pure junk ;)

    Hey Aaron are they a pain in the butt to get running?

    in reply to: 1975 TS400 #177112

    Carl
    Member

    Thanks Ollie, e-bay was the first place I searched. Had a guick look on google aswell but haven’t dug deep just yet. Thought maybe might be able to get them localy instead of paying the bigger shipping from the US, and never know what people may have in their sheds unused and un-needed any more.

    in reply to: Valve adjustments #175059

    Carl
    Member

    Thank you all for the replies. I will give you style a go next time bull and see how it feels. Always willing to try new methods. Hey TB I have been searching the net this arvo and have found a few sets with the elusive .12mm. It is amazing how many go from .10 to .15. And a few that go .10 then .13. It is also amazing how much they vary from metric to imperial. One says .10mm is .003 then the next says .10 is .004. I have also found one that says .003 is .076mm, .004 is .102mm and .005 is .127mm. Even on the two sets I have they are both different with the conversions. Would .01 of a mm or .001 of an inch make that much difference?

    in reply to: Valve adjustments #175016

    Carl
    Member

    Thanks Mick. Adjusted it to the second “T”. Only one little issue I have with adjusting them is I only have a 0.10mm and 0.15mm gauge out of three sets. There is no 0.12mm for the out lets so I adjusted them so I can’t get the .15 in but the .10 slides in and out easily so I’m hoping it is around .12. I have rang around localy here and no one has a set with a .12 in them and have rang the local motor bike shop and they wouldn’t let me borrow thiers so I guess it will be close enough. When it comes to actually adjusting them how much drag do you want on the fingers? A fair bit or just slightly? If I adjust them to just slightly drag on the .10 I can still slide the .15 in resonably easily with only moderate drag so I adjusted them so it was dragging on the .10 a fair amount as not to allow the .15 in. Is that right or is that too tight?

    in reply to: Valve adjustments #175008

    Carl
    Member

    Thanks for the responce Mick. Yeah the free play is at the rocker. The free play is actually on the decomp and not the cable, when you move it over the first 8mm there is no resistance then it kicks in. I assume that is right as it is the way I got it and the decomp lever works fine.
    I did adjust attempt to adjust the valves a fortnight ago and I seemed to go ok but over the last couple of days she has started to sound a little rattly/tappy in the top end so I think maybe they are slittle too much play.
    I will just use the rear wheel to make final adjustments and fingers crossed it is all sweet.
    While I’m on the toppic what is with all the marks on the flyweehl? I have a “|T” ant TDC then around further and the “true TDC” I have “F|F” then another 10mm I have another “|T” then there is also a “|” mark halfway around which I’m assuming is “BDC”. I think the manual and all I have read on the net is recomending the secont “|T” mark to adjust from. Is this right?

    in reply to: 87 XR600R chain slide #173533

    Carl
    Member

    I would love to go with the oem part, being that you just bolt it on and hell of a lot easier and no stuffing around but I just can’t justify paying $100 for a piece of rubber/plastic when I know for a fact it would cost under 10% of that price to make it, probably closer to 99% cheaper if the truth be know especialy the way the Asians are producing stuff now days for next to nothing at all. If I can get a product that is cheaper and may actually last longer and not look that much different from stock then I think the little stuffing around is worth it. Plus I love any excuse to get out in my shed for a while ;)

    in reply to: 87 XR600R chain slide #173478

    Carl
    Member

    Thanks MickW for the links. The local bike shop can get them but bloody expensive. I will keep looking for an aftermarket slide but don’t think I’ll get one some how.
    Hey Hypoman that was actualy mentioned by the bike shoips owner here. He said he new a bunch of people who have done that. I have also contacted a plastics company here in Australia who make that polyethalene (or what ever it is called) that is a low friction plastic they use on boat trailer slides. I can get 4 pieces cut to size, 10mm x 40mm x 540mm for $22, I inquared about that size so I have a little to play with and chop out if needed. At the moment, because I’m a real cheap bastard and funds are tight, I have a piece of really heavy duty rubber hose on there. The hose is 1 1/2 inch with a wall thicknes of 6mm. I cut a strip out around 400mm long and about 40mm wide. Got a thick, wide industrial cable tie and but a hole in it and screwed that to the swing arm then ran the hose and cable tide it in place. I have been for a hand full of rides, not holding back either, and it is still holding stable at the moment. A slight discolouration where the chain touch it but hasn’t start to cut into it yet. When it does I thin it will let go very quickly. I know it is very dodgy but it will work till I get a new one.

    in reply to: 87 XR600R chain slide #173453

    Carl
    Member

    That is because here in Aus they have to cover the costs of the lube that comes with the products they sell.

    in reply to: 87 XR600R chain slide #173422

    Carl
    Member

    apperantly no one makes an aftermarket slide for an 87 or older. I gues I will be drilling and tapping some new holes in my swing arm so I can use the newer aftermarkit slide which is only $32.

    in reply to: 87 XR600R chain slide #173366

    Carl
    Member

    The you both. The local bike shop has got back to me with around the $90 mark for oem and he is still chasing an aftermarket slide for an 87. He siad the newer model’s aftermarket slide is around the $30 mark.

    in reply to: Howel in 3rd #173362

    Carl
    Member

    Yeah I could emagine. Would give a better view on how much wear and tear goes on inside a motor. I’ll defenatly have to get myself one though.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 57 total)