[CarlMember]

Mick you poor bugger. I couldn’t stop laughing after reading that. Had only just composed my self and the read

Quote:

I don’t blame you for going in after it Mick, I’m partial to a screaming wet pussy in the morning myself, and to find out it wasn’t your wifes, your a legand Mick.

then to top it off

Quote:

I have a different perspective on you now after reading this story.

You have no idea how to manage a wet ferial pussy….

Maybe you are getting to old!!!

Brilliant start to all of our days.
On a serious note though I would have opted for the net on the cats head, only good cat is a dead cat they say.
I really don’t know how you didn’t drown the thing after the especially bite. And to find out, after you have a throbbing thumb and probably a fever from the maingy thing biting you in the next day or two, that it isn’t one of your partners cats bet you are really spewing. Great stroy though from our vantage point.

[CarlMember]

Thanks for the answers. I will check the oil and filter next change. Austblue I don’t have one yet but I will invest in one. Do they have a magnet in the bolt or has the bolt itself had a magnetic charge added to it?

[CarlMember]

I have taken her for a few 10 – 15 minute rides getting her fairling hot and all seems find. Still running at this stage so I must have done something right.
One other thing, The kicker didn’t seem to go all the way on the shaft when I put it back on. I give it a few taps while trying to spread it slightly but the kicker on just went level with the shaft. Is this correct? I had done the screw up tight but after a few start there seems to be about 2mm play in and out of the kicker on the shaft even though the bolt is tigh. Should I remove the bolt and try to get it on further or is that on correctly? so the bolt sits in the missing teeth on the shaft?

[CarlMember]

Cheers Tim. I think I may have been listeneing for issues. I triple checked every thing as I put it all back together, had no spare parts afterwards which is always good but don’t have a torque wrench so all the alloy parts got tightened till the bolts/nuts stoped then a tad more. So I think I’m just paranoid that the nuts/bolts aren’t tight enough. Had a history of breaking alloy parts in the past from being to heavy handed but now I’m always sceptical that they may not be tight enough.
I pulled the rear drum apart last week and there was actually some metal in the bottom of it, took the bits of metal to the local bike shop and the guy there said he thought it was a spring that usually goes on the older XR’s, took his word for it and it still works so who knows, don’t use the rear break that often any way. I re-adjusted the rear break but haven’t had a chance to take her for another ride tonight.
I’m always nervous after I perform any kind of re-builds myself. Don’t have a leg to stand on if she does let go some how. Years ago I rebuilt a fairly nasty 351 Clevo with a mate of a mate who was suppose to be a gun mechanic, spent 6K on the motor that already had all the good bits anyway, I replaced every nut and bolt exept the big end bolts “don’t need to replace them, just a waist of money” the gun mechanic told me. And what happened, not even 100kms into running her in she dropped a big end and stuffed the whole show, 6K gone. So now that is always in the back of my head and I’m always very nervious when I play with any thing.
Thanks heaps again for the help and I’ll post a sollution to the noises if I find any.

[CarlMember]

Well I took her for a 10 minute run and not sure if I’m hearing things but there seems to be a slight swiring noise coming from the clutch area and an occasional clicking kind of noise from the same area. Not sure if it is just me trying to here things as I don’t trust my mechanical abilities. Also when slowing down I here a sound that sounds like a semi truck dropping down a gear behind me by a 100 metres or so, actually looked behind myself a few times before I realised it was my bike. Not sure where that noise is actually coming from, might be the rear drum, going to back it off a few turns and go for another ride after tea and have another listen.
Also if the oil is warm on the dipstick it means that the oil pump is working ok doesn’t it? It is still near on 38 degrees so she seems a little warm, not sure if it is an engine issue or just the heat. Bloody paranoid bugger when it comes to busting things on vehicles, don’t want to harm the poor old girl.

[CarlMember]

Thanks WR. I have been reading all day on the net and have actually come across that a few times now. The funny thing is last week it never had an issue at all. I would pull the clutch in and you could wheel her around and she was always smooth into first. I haven’t onwed a bike before and as soon as this happened I assumed something had gone wrong and wanted to get it sorted before doing any bad damage. Maybe she is just going to be like this from now on.

[CarlMember]

Cheers Ollie.

Well I got the thrust washer today and put her back together. Once the clutch was done up I tried the lever a few times and still seemed to be sticking in the clutch. I noticed that if I held my clutch lever in and then played with the fibre plates with my free hand they would free up and then the bike would move, they were kind of stuck to the steel plates with the suction from the oil. Any way I adjusted my cable so that there was a little play in the lever and bolted the cover back on. Put 1L of oil in and ran her for a few minutes then added the extra .95L, Then ideled her again for a few minutes and killed her. Then I put her in 1st and give her a push forward and the same shit. She is still having the same bloody issue. If you give her a big heave backwards the clutch seems to free up then you can easily push her but the minute you let the clutch go and squeeze her again the same problem. Thought maybe that I just needed to do it a few times while she was running so I fired her up again and she still clunks into 1st. I’m stumped. Would I need to take her for a big ride to get oil through the clutch plates better? I don’t know what to do exept order a new clutch kit, but shouldn’t have to as every thing is still in spec.

[CarlMember]

Ok thanks again. I stood her up and drained a bit from the right then drained the rest through the oil res drain hole and sump drain hole. Pulled the filter also. Oil is slightly dark but still see through but does smell a bit burnt. Filter looks clean though. My speedo works ollie so I’ll just stick with that. I mainly do road riding around town at the moment with only a little dirt so would you be opting for 550 – 600 for oil change or more? Do you generally change the plug then also or do they last longer on the bikes, clean and regap maybe? Hey Tim is there any thing I should be looking for while the cover is off that could be worn? Bloody thrust washer isn’t here this morning either so I have to wait till tomorrow now.

[CarlMember]

Thanks again to the both of you. Ollie would it be recomneded to install an hour meter or just go by the kms? Could I just stand her up with the side cover off still to drain it that way? or should I bolt the cover back on first? Tim I was actually shocked at how clean the internals looked. I thought that would have shown at least a bit of ware but seariosly it all looks near new. Like you said at least I know it is all done properly. Is there any thing in the actual lever that goes into the box that could be worn and give me this issue? I’ll let you all know how I get on tomorrow when I put her back together.

[CarlMember]

Thanks again every for your help it is greatly appreciated. I will wait till thursday for the thrust washer then put her all back together again. I’ll then dump the oil and put the new oil in and hopefully it should be all fixed. Would you recomend firing the bike with the old oil first to see if any thing I have done has actually fixed the problem or just dump the old oil and throw the new stuff in before firing her up? Also should I wait till I have dumped the oil to put the new oil filter in or can I do that while the case is off and not get it too contaminated with the old oil?

[CarlMember]

Cheers xy. So the 25w -50 should be fine for here then. Pain in the rear that I have to wait till thursday befor getting her back together but you get that with living in smaller towns.

[CarlMember]

The oil I got for her was 25W-50 Castrol for large bore motorcycles. I wanted 20w-50 but they only had 10w-40 and 15w-50 or one cheap brand that was 20w-50 but the guy said that the other stuff would be fine. Thought the known brand would be better, should that stuff be ok or too thick? I read somewhere that the W actualy means winter and not weight like I had thought and that the lower number is suppose to be a general teprature or something, is this correct? On our coolest days it is still in the low 20’s if that helps at all.

[CarlMember]

Sorry Tim didn’t see your last post. Pulled the basket off again and defenetly not there either. I rang the local bike shop and I’ll have one Thursday morning. You wouldn’t know if there is a thrust washer from a newer bike or other brand that would fit so I don’t have to wait till thursday?

[CarlMember]

Yeah you can see the difference in my manual, and the washer that is under the lock nut is just a standard washer. Definetly no thrust washer there at all. Also didn’t get the manual you sent as I already have two on my pc that are identical but named differently.

[CarlMember]

Yeah you can see the difference in my manual, and the washer that is under the lock nut is just a standard washer. Definetly no thrust washer there at all. Also didn’t get the manual you sent as I already have two on my pc that are identical but named differently.

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