[CarlMember]

No mate there is nothing on the back of the clutch center. Just a ware mark that is exactly the same diameter as the star looking piece in the basket that is held on py a circlip.

[CarlMember]

What would the thickness be of the thrust washer? When I pulled her apart there was the lock nut then a washer (fairly thick) then the centre then the basket. There is defenately no thrust washer there.

[CarlMember]

I have the fibre plates soaking at the moment and was just looking that the manual and noticed that when I pulled the clutch apart there isn’t a “thrust” washer between the basket and clutch center. I would take it that this would be an issue as the clutch center wouldn’t be traveling as far as it should wen engaged. Is that some thing I can purchase by itself?

[CarlMember]

Thanks Tim. I before I even posted here I thought that it may have been something to do with that as I had fixed the rear puncture the day before but in nutueral there was no issue at all. If I left it in gear and pulled the clutch and tried to kick her she would move forward like in gear. Oh and also forgot I checked all the steel plates on a piece of glass and they are all seem good, even the discoloured plate however the manual says limit of 0.01 inch but my smallest feeler gauge I have says 0015(0.04) but I couldn’t get that under any where but there is still room for error. Should I go out and try to get a 0.01 gauge first just to make sure?
I’m starting to think it may have just been the oil. I will put it all back together and then see what happens, if nothing has changed I’ll change my oil.
Oh and I had checked the screen yeterday aswell, there was three little bits of crud on there. Not metal, just felt and looked like bits of old oil or something as it was soft.

[CarlMember]

Thanks for that xy. I have looked on the container and can’t see the non friction modified on it any where. I’ll just have to wait till tomorrow and get some proper oil.
I might also change the oil filter while I’m at it if it needs it. Is there any way to tell if it is really needed or not or should I just change it for piece of mind?

[CarlMember]

The oil I have here is “Gulf Western Oil” HVX Motor Oil 20W-50 SJ/CF for pasanger cars, LPG and light diesel powered engines prior to 2001
Would that be ok to soak them in?

[CarlMember]

Thanks all for your help.
So I borrowed a rattle gun from a mate and pulled the basket off. I filed all the fingers smooth then give it all a good clean with crc then compressed air. I noticed on the back of the clutch center and on the front of the basket there is a real rough area and at closer inspection it appears to be tiny little fractures, kind of looks like crows feet in paint work. They don’t go all the way through and look superficial but thought I’d mention it. Could it just be from bad casting and not cleaning the cast up properly? Should I give this area a light rub with some fine emery to remove the rough feel? Also on the back of the clutch center there apears to be two one inch welds on it. Very fine weld. Is this normal?
When it comes to soaking the fibre plates does it have to be in the 20w-50 oil or just any motor oil? Like to soak them tonight but only have cheap oil for my old work car. Also I read some where else about giving the fibre plates a light sanding to roughen them up a bit before soaking them, is this recomended?
Hey Tim I did what you said and tested the clutch lever before I pulled all the plates out and it did seem to travel 5mm. I’ll check the steel plates in a while but they do all seem fine, exept the 3rd one that is discoloured, doesn’t look warped but the colour is defenatly from heat. When it comes to doing every thing back up do you torque them to proper spec or just do them up? Don’t have torque wrench, might be able to borrow one tomorrow though if need be. Could the problem be the actual lever arm into the box?

[CarlMember]

Thanks ollie and wr. Yeah the grooves aren’t too bad. More of a slight rolling groove than an actual cut in them if that makes any sence. I have a bloody 3/4 inch rattle gun but don’t have a 3/4 in female to 1/2 inch male adaptor for my sockets. Be investing in one next week I can tell you. Oil doesn’t look too bad but I layed her on her side because nothing is open to get new oil today. I’ll do that tomorrow aswell. On the fibre plates every third tooth has a little semi circle cut out on one side. Do they have to be lined up? Staggered? Facing the sdame way? They were all over the shop when I pulled them out. No order at all. But would it be better to have them sorted?

[CarlMember]

I have messure all the fibre plates and they all read 2.9 exept one is 2.8. The Manual says 2.6 limit. The springs messured up at 45.5 but oine was 44.5. Limit is 43.1 so I am guessing it is all fine there. I have nothing that I know is 100% flat so not sure how I can messure my steel plates. Do you need to soak the fibre plates even if I put the old ones back in? I have pulled the lever a few times but can’t really see what is wrong. What is the best way to hold onto the centre clutch to undo the lock nut with out damaging the centre clutch? Was going to throw a ringing around one of the spring mounts but not sure if it will snap off, appears to be only cast alloy so bit weak I’d say. Could the grooves in the basket fingers cause the clutch to not operate properly?

[CarlMember]

So I have layed her down and pulled the side cover. The springs appear whitened to one half, looks like possible dicolouration from heat. All the fibre plates look good. All the steel plates look good exept the 3rd one in appears to be discoloured from heat. I haven’t messured their thickness yet but all look like new and are very straight. The clutch basket’s fingers have slight grooving on them so I will file/sand them smooth. I see in the manual it says to use a lock nut wrench on the cluch lock nut. I don’t have one, can I use a standard socket? Also when putting it back together should I keep all the plates in order as they come out? and do they need to be re-oiled first? I’ll take some snaps in a while and post them also.

[CarlMember]

Bike shop isn’t open till tomorrow so I might lay her on her side and pull her apart and have a look at the clutch. Seems weard that it didn’t show any signs of packing up before it did or is that normal? Then again I’m no seasoned rider so it might have been showing signs and I didn’t see them.

[CarlMember]

Thanks again Ollie. When you pull the side cover off does it usualy kill the seal/gasket? I’ve never delt with bikes but played with 351’s a bit, I know there are some gaskets that can be re-used on them, eg carb gasket, but not sure about bikes. Do they have to be replaced every time a cover is pulled?

[CarlMember]

Hey Ollie I lubed the cable a fortnight ago so I’m thinking it isn’t that, also if I remove the cable from the box end and pull the lever by hand it still does the same thing, you can push her forward with the clutch pulled but it takes a bloody huge amount of effort, not quite as much as in gear with no clutch though. If the plates thickness is alright but they are bent or warped at all can they be straightened?

[CarlMember]

Hey Booney I only made the cable adjustments after the problem had started after my ride.
medo thanks for that. I will have a look at the oil. Apperantly it had a full service just days prior to me purchasing it. But I have heard some “good” stories about the mechanic shop where it was suppose to have been done so it wouldn’t surprise me if it wasn’t touched. I know it came out of there with out the rear break conected again after they put new tyres on, so quality assured. Getting back to the oil, what would you suggest for an old 87 XR600?

[CarlMember]

I think I will go that way Mr Blue. Mike had also suggested the Mikuni flatslide so I think I will invest in one.

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