[GregMember]

micknmeld wrote:

Quote:

What do you guys think about dropping the needle back to its original “pinging position” and going up one size in the pilot jet then?
Would that also fatten up the mid range? I am trying to get my head around TB’d jetting chart and from what I can work out the main jet is the one that is the go mid range.

Lifting the needle makes a bigger change than going one or two jet sizes, go back to the same needle setting, go one bigger pliot jet (or slow jet) than if thats not enough borrow some jet drills and take it one step at a time till its right.

TB

[GregMember]

EAGLE`02 wrote:

Quote:

Do any of you guys do Dampers in the camp oven, I have 2 camp ovens but am shit at the damper HA HA Maybe marshmallows will be easier :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Don’t worry Eagle you have some two weeks to practice, and think how you will improve yourself as a person and can then add Damper cooking to your resume! See always thinking for the benefit of our members (and my stomach)

TB

[GregMember]

Chris said it was thumpertalk Boulder, cheers

TB

[GregMember]

Crash I went from western QBE to insure my ride, I have since checked out ebike insurance which seems the goods and I plan on changing to them, check them out @ http://www.ebikeinsurance.com.au/
Remember of course that up where I am in gods country its cheaper than in the city slums like some as we dont have the crime and people like the ridge lol

TB

[GregMember]

As you have asked I ran an XR 600 since JC played half back for Jerusalem and never once felt I had oil over heating issue, but you could drill some air flow holes in it with a hole saw like Crash’s or Ollie or Mac could arrange to do it for you. We have just ordered a special plastic one for project DRZ as they are supposed to be the latest and greatest better than aluminum.

TB

[GregMember]

What about some fish for the BBQ Tiny theres a creek near by

[GregMember]

When Scott punches a hole thru his crankcase Honda gives him a new one dopey, not you, Scott would have worn a cold sore if his sponsors wanted him to, every trail rider I know uses one bar you :blush: Just a thought will never speak of it again :blink:

TB

[GregMember]

Nice fishy things boys, I could see the newspaper stuck to yours Tiny from the co-op I reckon lol

Congrats on the 500 posts Ollie everyone a charm

TB

[GregMember]

That Picture the Yuri posted of a dude holding up a XR600 before, well the dudes name is Scott Summers and heres his tips for a fast XR 600, including jetting

10 Go-Fast Tricks

One strong thumper pilot.

Here’s what Scott Summers and his mechanic, Fred Bramblett, do to his XR600Rs to make them more competitive. These ten tips can be applied to any production thumper, but the jetting specs are for recent-model XR600s only.

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1. To increase airflow, remove the airbox lid and use an aftermarket air filter. Do not remove the backfire screen from the cage. Removing the screen changes the intake velocity and causes the bike to have poor throttle response at low rpm.

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2. To increase exhaust flow, Scott replaces the stock muffler with a White Bros. Megalloy system, with an open end-cap for closed-course competition. Scott says, “Please don’t use the open end-cap for trail riding, as it is way too loud to use on public land.” He also recommends sealing the muffler to header junction with high-temp sealant – they use Hondaline Hondabond H.T.

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3. Check the header pipe where it mounts to the exhaust manifold. Sometimes the welds are overdone, and the extra material can restrict airflow. Grind away the protruding material to increase flow, but don’t overdo it to the point of making the area weaker.(br>

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4. With these mods, Scott uses the following jetting:

Jet Stock Mod

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Main 152 155
Pilot 62 68
Airscrew 2.5 turns out
Scott says, “Most four-strokes come jetted on the lean side and must be richened when you increase intake and exhaust flow.”

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5. To make the race bike run cooler and extend clutch life, they mount an XR250R oil cooler to the steering head and remove the headlight for more airflow.

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6. For better cooling they sometimes wrap the header pipes with exhaust wrap made by Thermo-Tech to keep heat from being transfered back into the cylinder and head by airflow.

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7. If a course or trail isn’t going to be too muddy, they trim 4″-5″ off the back of the front fender to allow more cooling air to reach the cylinder.

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8. Scott recommends against the use of plate-type skidplates. You got it, he feels they restrict air flow and trap engine heat.

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9. Run good pump gas with an octane rating of 91 unless you have a modified high compression engine. Scott runs a stock engine because “the increased compression braking throws off my timing.”

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10. Keep your valves and valve decompression systems adjusted properly! This is extremely important for any thumper.

[GregMember]

Review this thread Mick its simple, it wont be the main jet as you havent been riding Finke, go down one or maybe two I would go down two sizes on the pilot jet or slow jet as they call it here, let me check something else while you look at this, stay tuned

1. IDLE: Set idle speed to correct r.p.m. by adjusting the IDLE SPEED SCREW. Turn The AIR SCREW to achieve the highest idle speed and best response. After this adjustment has been made adjust the IDLE SPEED again back to the correct r.p.m.

2. OFF IDLE to 1/4 THROTTLE: The SLOW JET and the AIR SCREW are most effective in this range. When you want a richer mixture use a larger SLOW JET or turn the AIR SCREW in. The opposite holds true for a leaner Mixture.

3. 1/4 to 3/4 THROTTLE: The JET NEEDLE is the most effective component in this range. Raising the needle by lowering the clip position at the top of the needle will richen the mixture. Lowering the needle will lean the mixture.

4. WIDE OPEN THROTTLE (W.O.T.): Changing the MAIN JET effects this range. Select the size which offers the best W.O.T. performance, then install one size larger MAIN JET for ideal engine durability.

NOTE: Not all Carbs have AIR SCREWS. Some have FUEL SCREWS, it is important to differentiate as to which one you have. This depends on the location of the screw on the carb. (looking at the center of the carb) If the screw is in between the cylinder and the carb body , it’s a FUEL SCREW, turn it OUT to get more fuel (richer) if the screw is in between the carb body and the air box, it’s an AIR SCREW, turn IN to richen it. As far as I know this rule of thumb is correct. Check with your dealer or manual if at all unsure. Note: most air/fuel screws should be set somewhere between 0.5 to 3.0 turns from seated, if it is outside this range you should look towards your slow jet.

[GregMember]

Where did you get the case savers Boulder?

[GregMember]

Today Chop and I went over to Battyes to drop the wheels of, I had stripped the tires form the rims and Chop had cabled tied the spokes. Travis the back bone at Battyes was going to strip the wheels so the rims could be sent to Mortdale for painting.
While there we confirmed the order with Fathead, this list includes such items as a high density plastic bash plates, radiator guards with braces, bar lifters, stealth sprocket set, brake snakes, stubby levers, exhaust system, steering damper and carbon fibre handle bars, Yes Carbon Fibre bars, bling city rider X.

We traveled back to Penrith to visit Tee n Cee signs, these guys have been doing my sticker kits for ever now and I have never had a drama, never. I have two complete sets of plastics, the triple 888 set has been on my bike for over 3 years now only removed so I could have yellow back grounds for the A4DE in 2006. I only ever spray them with truck wash and high pressure washes them, they have never lifted and protect the plastics like I can’t believe.

The boys at Tee n Cee are doing up a template for an Old Bull Trailrider sticker kit, so if you ride a WR for example you will be able to ring them and order an Old Bull sticker kit to suit your blue ride, the back ground could be blue and you can support Old Bull while protecting your plastics. The kit will fit your radiator fairings, (not the tank as we dont want them to bubble) your side covers and rear guard sticker including your number plate if you desire. You can order just the fairing stickers or side covers etc to suit you. I have ordered a set for my radiator fairings and rear guard as by side covers are still in excellent condition and these will be red back ground, as your Kato ones would Orange.

We are now waiting for bits and pieces to turn up, Chop purchased a 280mm over size front brake disc and bracket last night for $120.00 with thanks to Slug for that. Scotty we have asked Fathead to chase the tail light you suggested thanks for that.

Ollie we have ordered some Michelin ultra heavy duty tubes a new front tyre but need a new rear hint hint, could trial I retread

Cheers TB

[GregMember]

You guys still good to go after your warm up run with the new bike Ollie?

TB

[GregMember]

Sweet ride Ollie it looks the goods, and its not Orange
Got anymore photos? How did sundays ride go? How did the tracks pan out and where did you go? How did the new guy go?

TB

[GregMember]

Great work above Scotty, we have fathead chasing a rear light setup, but I like that one there you have

Cheers

TB

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