[Nick DoleMember]

Trev,

There are 2 ohlins shocks for the Tenere, Listed below are the $ i sell them for. I also fit the right spring FOC.

YA817 OHLINS XT660 Z TENERE 46PRC $1115.00
YA054 OHLINS XT660 Z TENERE S46DR1 $879.00

For the fork, you need springs and to check out if the damper rods have been correctly modified.

I have built a frankenshock for TB as he was using the stock revalved/resprung sachs shock but he was tearing the lugs off the spring adjuster. Given that it’s ridden more like an enduro bike it was the best answer to get a stronger body/cylinder head. No one else has done this to a Sachs shock so i don’t think it’s a big problem, there are not many TB’s out there….

[Nick DoleMember]

I have a customer who has turned out to be a 650 Vstrom fan. He’s made longer damper rods for it (30Mm) and he’s running our fork springs and V4s valves. We supplied him an Ohlins for the rear but it was too soft stock, i’ve given him a stiffer setting one and it’s better but he wants more so i’m about to do it again. We are also going to lengthen the shock by 25mm as he does use it as an adventure bike.
Best part is he has an XR650R as well! he loves the Strom for it’s road manners and just wants to be able to ride at a reasonable pace in the bush and not have to be careful with the odd jump.
I’ll post some photos up tonight.

Nick

[Nick DoleMember]

Angus,

We use Toll road most of the time for suspension, where are you? we can have it picked up if it’s easier for you.

[Nick DoleMember]

Hey Matt,
The shock is $480 and the forks get our V4s valves ($175) springs ($198) and fitting ($165 and oil $35) for a total of $573. Add the two up and apply the 10% discount to you guys and you get $957. Prices are assuming we get just a fork and a shock. No seals or other consumables are included as it’s a new or near new bike. TB just completed the longevity test on the stock rear shock seal. 30 000km. Not bad.

[Nick DoleMember]

Seen it before. Normally throttle cables or a clutch line wearing the tubes over time. Even plastic can do it! If it’s from an impact it will displace the fork tube into the ID and make the slide bush stick. We can check that out when it’s apart.

I’ve only replaced top tubed from impact damage, 1.5 mm will be ok depending on where the damage is. I can’t see it from the photo but does it actually leak oil?! If it’s worn that far i’d replace. Can’t weld it, the tubes go out of round, 0.05 tolerance for roundness.

48MM WP fork? Same since 03 ish bar the stupid 3 bush idea. Any of the tubes will fit if you need to replace, grey, bronze, black, all the same.

Nick

[Nick DoleMember]

Teknik wrote:

Quote:

Barefoot??!! You can start them with your hand. I used to do it to customers to freak em out after i put the HRC kit in. 11.5:1 piston no problem. Someone bring a big red pig over and we’ll get a video on youtube. Barefoot..pfft.

The problem is of course, hot starting. The heat soak gets to the bowl and the fuel starts boiling and running into the inlet port….Still, makes you more determined not to stall them.

[Nick DoleMember]

Barefoot??!! You can start them with your hand. I used to do it to customers to freak em out after i put the HRC kit in. 11.5:1 piston no problem. Someone bring a big red pig over and we’ll get a video on youtube. Barefoot..pfft.

[Nick DoleMember]

What pelican at DA wrote that?
No name on it so journalistic integrity goes out the window.
Short memories of Chad reed on a YZ450 getting his ass whupped by Burner on the XR650R in 2000. Then there was Finke and Baja and Safari.
if Wigan ever printed some trash like that in Transmoto he would receive contributor hate mail from yours truly.
Nick

[Nick DoleMember]

Glad it worked out TB, you sounded a bit flustered on the phone :blink:

[Nick DoleMember]

you can get a great deal of benefit from a revalve as it can be done to suit your riding ability and wherer you ride. with you you forks you could also install a T-valve kit which will greatly improve the handling of the bike. the rough cost for the fork service and kit installation is $539 and the shock revalve will cost $289. Please be aware that this does not include any consumable parts. we will not know what we need until we get teh forks and shock apart.

[Nick DoleMember]

Intro from me? Ok well most of you have probably guessed i own Teknik Motorsport. I started the business out of the ashes of the Ballards XR’s only workshop in 2001.
I’d had my fair share of suspension experience working at Ballards and i struck up a deal with GB to buy the tooling from the workshop as GB wanted to move away from the service and repair side. I opened up around the corner and have been here ever since.
I’ve been a mechanic all my life, in the automotive and motorcycle industry’s and i’ve always ridden/raced anything i could lay my hands on. From St Ives mini bike club on a borrowed KX80E (84) to a Greg Cady MX school at Failford park in 86. The rod in my YZ125K let go on the last day of a week long school so i had to learn how to split cases and press a crank! Ok for a 16 year old looking back. Then it was onto Hawkesbury club on a few different bikes, eventually an XR600. Renmember when we all had them?
All of our products are our own brand. It’s been a deliberate move on my part as i’m a controlling bastard and i don’t like selling products i don’t like, or disagree with the design.
I’ve known Brad as a customer since 2004. We both decided last year it might be good for both of us to work together. He’s done Finke about 5 times and a lot of trail riding in between so he has a good perspective for our customers, plus he’s bigger than most (175kg ish) so when a guy calls up who is 120kg and asks if we can build suspension to suit him, Brad can give a first hand account of what a good set-up can do for a heavy rider.

Brad and I will try to answer question as quickly as we can. I’m sure there is some post alert i can turn on. Anyone know how to do that? :blush:

Nick

[Nick DoleMember]

Ok, well there is quite a lot you can do.
I don’t know what the recommended “sport” settings are but i can suggest the following, all from full hard.
Comp, fork 10-16 out. really this is personal preference,but any more than 4 clicks from full hard and the fork will get harsher, not firmer.
Rebound, 13-16 is a good place to be
I’d suggest you wind on some fork preload to hold it up until you respring it. I’ll attach a spring graph as soon as i work out how to do a screen shot to a forum (help!) You will see the value in altering preload when the right spring is not available.
Oil height i’d suggest as low as possible. It only has a tasteable effect in the last 1/3 of the stroke so it’s a bottoming control more than anything else, it won’t hold you up like a spring will.

Shock wise, 38-42mm static sag and 113-118mm rider is where we usually run, a bit different to the suggested settings.
Low speed Comp 10-14
Hi speed 2 turns 1-3 turns out as a range
Rebound 18-22.

With rear end kicking, you need to decide if the kick is from bottoming or rebounding too fast after the obstacle or not using enough travel and them moving the bike up with a resulting kick in the arse.

You need to experiment as it helps you develop skills in set-up plus it helps me as you can give better feedback on what did and did not work on the stock settings.

Nick

[Nick DoleMember]

Both is better. We have had 75 kg riders who carry 25kg of junk, er i mean “gear” plus they add on another 10kg just in case, cos they are fast. So i end up giving them something for a 110kg rider! We learned, now we always ask!

[Nick DoleMember]

First post…need to get my account sorted :S , but anyway at 93kg you could go up to 0.48kg/mm springs but its not a biggie. It’s the lack of dampening character that’s made the change after 10 hours.

As another person mentioned, we have developed a kit for the WR fork as many people say the same thing,
” best for ever when the bike was new, but then after about 10 hours it started bottoming, then it got harsh, now it’s not that good!”

The fork is a little unconventional in that it uses a poppet valve for the passive (base) valve. Ohlins used this system a few years ago and it was a moderate success, but they dumped it in about 05. They went back to a “contentional” set-up and that’s what we sell for the WR.

Nick@teknik

Sorry i skipped the bit about the gold valves. here is hint, SINGLE STAGE VALVING!!!!! Ditch that wimpy dual stage stuff. You will actually need a bunch of shims to make it work, the Race Tech kit does not have what I think is a good setting. It can be made to work OK though.

[Nick DoleMember]

Thank you for the comments. when you are ready to have your suspension done please let us know. I will need to know your rider weight without gear, what riding you do and what you currently don’t like about your existing setup. The new tapered spring has been met with great response and riders are having excellent results.

Brad

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