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Next time in your dealer compare the KXF to the KLX.
Note that the exhaust header on the KLX is not only longer but narrower. This means less top end power.
The valves are different as no doubt the camshafts will be. Also the timing will be different – different e-box modules. The KXF is a racer out and out and all these changes amount to quite a bit of top end h.p.OK. The Mekon rode out to Limeburners (southern entrance) today. The track is closed at the top – a big sign saying walkers only, and a huge gate with about 100m of stout wire fencing each side reaching deep into the undergrowth. There is no quick bypass.
That said the gate was open when I was there and no sign of any traffic on the track for weeks.Other information will be sent by p.m.
It is my belief (from reading US magazines) that the current crop of 450 enduro bikes only put out in the region of 40hp when on a proper rear wheel dyno. (not the drum type which are a joke) This means all of them. The worst may be around 38hp and the best around 42hp. The equivalent MX bikes top out around the 50hp mark – I think the KLX was 50hp with the new KTM 51hp. These MX bikes are much more prpwerful than their enduro cousins, though the enduro bikes can be modified to approach the MX bike HP.
No one should delude themselves about true rear wheel HP. My much modified 300 would be lucky to have 25hp.
Some years ago I had a modified E type Jaguar that only pulled 168hp at the rear wheels. The dyno operator said that the V12s (rated at 300hp) only made about the same, and that only race cars showed more than 200hp.Depending on the logistics, I may be interested.
Limeburners is apparently closed by the NPWS. They bought the land sometime last year which is a bit of a blow. How “closed” is the question – They could close it to 4WD with a gate, but a bike could easily pass.Hello Aarochild,
It seems like you have done what is required to derestrict the bike. Mine still has the snorkel in. The important parts to remove are the throttle stop screw and the baffle.
My bike had a clutch problem. A lot of the KLX450’s are being delivered with two thrust washers behind the clutch. Should be only one. Clutch will slip otherwise. Still no bulletin on this from Kawasaki.
Sounds like you have a bit of a background riding dirt bikes. If you came off a CR500 or KX500 this thing may be a bit of a pussy! To me coming off the 300 it is a beast. That said it does not have as much go as my mates 05 YZ450 which is a pure MX bike and would have 50+ hp to the KLX’s around 40 hp.
You can make these bikes up to the MX level of 50hp but you will not get the same reliabilityHave had the bike a week now and been on 5 rides. Already damaged the exhaust header in a fall – very vulnerable where it is. Also ran into a bank and cracked the front fender! So much damage in so little time. I have stacked my 300 more times than I can remember and some big ones too with less damage than this thing.
Had one problem apparently common to many. Clutch slipped in higher gears. Some bikes delivered with two washers behind the clutch basket. Fix is easy – remove one washer. Still no Kawasaki bulletin about this, and the dealer says he has had 5 or 6 with this problem.Trailboss wrote:
Quote:Wassup! No mail being e mail on the shipMade it to the ship o.k, .work is slow, trying to go as quick as possible. Weather is very hot , humidity is right up there. Cabin is shit and cant sleep because of jet lag and ship roll. Food is shit so I will deffo lose some weight! Move into house went well, looking forward to getting back. Missing the boys, hope Mick has been training for our running race :silly: Cant wait to party, prepare for some serious roostage :laugh: Take it easy vanilla faces!! High five
I am Skipper on a 40,000dwt self unloader –
Do you want a job here??
Food is great, work is hard + long hours, job frustrating, cabins are good, beer is cold.
What job do you do on board?Thankfully am heading home for a months break tomorrow.
Am looking forward to riding green!Thats one way.
Another is to stick a steel par between the rear sprocket and swing arm – this does not work with an alloy sprocket and I would not recommend it.
The best way is to make a special tool.
Take about 8″ of 520 chain – old stuff is OK. Using a 1/4′ bolt, attach it to about 2 foot of strong open link chain. Wrap the short length of chain over the top of the front sprocket. stretch the open link chain over the rear wheel spindle. You will notice it is hollow. Stick an 5/16 (8mm) bar through the chain and into the rear axle.
The front sprocket will be held tight no matter how much torque you apply to the nut.
reverse the process to install – the chain goes under the front sprocket this time.Too much!
My dealer’s price was $9500+on roads. Total $10,350.
Dirt bikes are still expensive – I would never pay the full retail.
You can get a good 650 road bike (V strom, Versys etc) for less than 10K on road, and these bikes both have a hell of a lot more metal than the 450’sHi Chris,
Yes I run the airbox lid, though I have doubled the size of the opening.
I run the lid as there is too much intake noise without it and, as you say, too much muck gets in the airbox.
The Clarke tank is not the best cosmetic finish. It does bolt straight on without any modifications.
On my 05 model I had to apply a heat gun to the shrouds to make them fit over the side bulges in the tank. 07 model owners have different shrouds and may not need to do this.
I also like the fact that this bike feels light, and is extremely tough. I have binned the bike heaps and it just does not break. In fact I wish Kawasaki had kept with a steel frame for the 450 model.
I know about the Bill Blue 331 mod of the 250 cylinder. Were I ever to want more cc, I would prefer to take the more conventional route of boring out the 300 cylinder to 83mm and then nikasil again. This is a much better job than the thin sleeve that the other method uses on the 250 cylinder. I would have no doubts about reliability in going the former way.
Still I will not need this now. I had to have the KLX450 after a short ride on my friends Yamaha 450. It can easily hoist the front wheel in 3rd gear, and the suspension is way better than the KLX250.
One of the reasons I preferred the KLX450 is that I am only average height, and can reach the ground with my feet on the KLX, but not the Honda or Yamaha.
My first dirt bike was an old Honda XL175, then a Honda XL250 degree, then the KLX250. Each bike has been a huge improvement on the last, and am hoping for a similar leap in getting on the KLX450R.Fossil wrote:
Quote:What sort of mileage do you get out of 1ltrs. You guys have got me thinking twice about a 450 now, I am starting to think a kitted 250 might be the go, cheaper rego to. Arr decisions decisions.The Clarke tank means I can get from the start of the dirt section on Wombeyan Caves road (there is a spot you can park your trailer there) to Limeburners Flat (66km) and back + a bit of a hoon around the Flat. Could not do this with a standard tank, even though I agree you can get 180km on the highway with the original gearing out of the standard tank.
As for a modified 250/300 instead of a KLX450 – I do not think you could come close. I looked at this option as I am keeping the 300. To make it up to 331cc + pumper carb + some additional suspension work, would have cost another $1500 – $2000 The bike might have had around 30-32hp at this stage, with a gut load of torque (that’s what I like about my current KLX)If you bought a second hand low km. KLX250 for about $3000 – $4000, you would still need to spend at least another $3000 to make it a hard charging 331. The bike would be good, but perhaps not as good as the 450 – I will soon know.
Here is a picture for those who are keen on green.
I currently run D952 tyres which for a mug rider like me seem terrific.
The clark tank gives about 11 litres, and has the dula advantage of weight saving and not needing a key (have removed the ignition barrel)
Hey Chris,
I think our bikes will have to meet up sometime.
Though I have bought a KLX450, I like the 250 so much I am keeping it.
Mine has a similar list of modifications, 300cc, Staintune system, Dynojet + all those minor “free” mods. Also put in .42 racetech fork springs – made a big difference to the front.here is a summmary of my bikes weight loss:-
KLX weight loss
I have checked out all the parts I have removed and made some calculations. I weighed the parts in plastic bags and I have listed the main bits, though there are some minor brackets/bolts etc in each bag.Removed from KLX
Headlight/instruments/brackets/blinkers/speedo cable 3.2kg
Rear Rack/blinkers/fender extension 1.6kg
Fan/Pillion pegs/de ice circuit/helmet holder/chain guide+guard
Rubber cover/sidestand switch/etc 1.9kg
Original exhaust sytstem 4.8kg
Ignition Barrel 0.6kg
Fuel tank 2.3kg
Original sprocket 42T 0.7kg
Mirrors 0.5kgTotal 15.6kg
Replacements
Headlight 0.6kg
Sprocket 0.4kg
Staintune full system 3.1kg
Clarke tank 1.7kg
Vapour trail tech speedo 0.3kg
Blinkers 0.2kgTotal 6.3kg
Meaning a saving of 9.3kg
My bike originally had a 50T Standard steel sprocket as fitted to the KLX300.
This thing weighed an enormous 1.25kg, if I were to count this the weight loss would be over 10kg.Thanks for the welcome. You seem like the kind of people I will get on with – I am not too wild, but do like a couple of beers to cool down after a long day.
Now if I can just guarantee to get off this ship in time, you may see me on the Christmas ride.
In the meantime, I must post on the greeen thread – it seems you really have some on here who appreciate the colour!
The Mekon has uploaded his avatar now.
Will ahve to decide whether to keep on with this site 7 drop DBW, or just fade away.
When is this Christmas ride?? I may just want to take it in.P.S. I am pretty clumsy with a computer, and have limited internet access at present.
john
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