[PaulMember]

Tough, maybe but this is old technology (1948) and just a matter of having a special skill & tools I think

[PaulMember]

Thanks Moto, but i must admit to an certain ‘anticipation’ before I clicked the link:kiss:

Luck as it is with me sometimes, found the original instruction book with the old lady down the road and this sorted the problem and then some.
I also photographed the whole thing with digi cam

Might have to continue this with “Sewing tips and tricks”….

Who can make me a needle that will take sailmakers ‘whipping twine’?
It would need a hole with a 0.5mm dia.

[PaulMember]

I can probably attend Sunday, I’m planning to race my catamaran on Sat.

I have been trying to explore Sugarloaf for viable ST with a mate but we keep going round in circles near Freemans.
I know how to get to the top and run the ridge but we just have fun exploring and sipping Late’s at the servo with the Beemer (will there be any risk of scratching it on this ride?)

I know an easy way to join the Watagans to Freemans Gap with only about 300mtr of tar so we could try to do the flat rock trail as well but they were building gates to close it off due to erosion some weeks ago.

Anyone know if the gates each end of slippery rock are locked yet?

[PaulMember]

Moto wrote:

Quote:

It’s been posted here before and I went with the spikes on the rims. That or a flux capacitor. Just don’t go over 88Mph on the thing

Perhaps it is the new model Tardis?

[PaulMember]

Mudrat wrote:

Quote:

Niiice very nice, but hows it work, Magnetic, Hydraulic ?????

So far the feeling is that it’s all to do with the spikes on the rims, some sort of mechanical drive with precision rollers and laser guided holograms etc, possibly even using a Peter Brock energy polariser?

There’s bound to be more info about it out there somewhere.

[PaulMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Quote:

Mines worn really thin on my 650 Dave, its plastic, I may switch to an alloy with the end trimmed for the bark buster, I loved the alloy one it was very smooth but must have been the angle of the dangle when it fell over, but can I still run the bearing and B/B dave?

TB

It must be like a thrust bearing in the end of the tube?
Maybe a bearing shop will have a thrust bearing with a hole big enough to accept the Barjbuster mount thingy?

Nah! Too many moving parts that can fail or fill up with mud and go rusty me thinks.

[PaulMember]

You are a wise man Champo, but it is those ‘shapes’ that make it a real BMW.
Kind of like a footy clubs mascot if you know what I mean.

I always thought BMW’s looked wierd but there’s something about them that cannot be explained until you own one, and it’s a good thing too

[PaulMember]

Moto wrote:

Quote:

The bling BMW’s like the one pictured above look awesome, I wonder why the prodcution ones look boring? I like the new BMW’s but think they look plain.

Poor show for any of the main manufacturers not to turn up though.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess.
I rather like the original graphics because they aren’t too bright or ‘in your face’.

The one pictured above does look good though.
Look here; http://www.speedbrain.de/

[PaulMember]

I suppose if the bike is dropped, an alloy tube could bend or kink and bugger up the throttle movement.
Plastic might self recover better :unsure:

[PaulMember]

Moto wrote:

Quote:

So, how did you boys get on?

Oh mate it was one of the bestest rides I’ve done in a while, I managed to run over some dood who crashed his brand new Hoosaberg right in front of us (no injury though).
Perfect weather, hopefully one of the other guys can do a report with their pics and video footage.

[PaulMember]

OMG there seems to be a disguised bling marketing push for the Beemer 450’s.
That one has a fair bit on it but I bet if I rode it, it would still crash the same as mine does.
Interesting pics TB

[PaulMember]

Oh sorry, try it now, original post edited.

[PaulMember]

Yeah, nah, got it fixed at West Gosford for $90, BMW said waranty will still cover the bike with a repaired radiator.
Radiator bloke said never bog up a radiator hole, it makes a proper repair much more difficult.

Replacement rad is $500.

[PaulMember]

I will have a go too.
Are you meeting at the picnic area or the camping ground?

[PaulMember]

Quote:

thanks for the info Wikd,I will have to check the primary drive for sure. how much is it for the manual chain tensioner thingy?( (2 smokes dont have this crap to worry about:blink: )

and lastly is it only the actual diameter of the inlet and outlet pipes that require changing? what about the water pump?)I cant see it being a problem over here especially with the touring intentions I have in mind:laugh: any more input appreciated and makes good reading

cheers Olie

The MCCT was about $40 US from Thumper Talk but Ballards might have them now.
You should probably check the cam chain if it still has the auto tensioner on, the auto one was guilty of stretching the chain.

You would have to change the radiators to up size the coolant pipes.
I doubt this would be worth while even in Aussie unless you wanted to race the bike or something, I dont think it has been a real big issue at all but Suzuki must have had a reason to change the size of the pipes. Just use a good coolant mixture.

[Author]

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