Ollies XR650R BRP

[Andrew RobsonMember]

Nice choice there Ollie.

I’m in the process of setting mine up for more ADV style riding. I went the Acerbis “Super tanker”.

BTW in that pic of under your rear fender there is no black tubular subframe.

[Aaron WildeMember]

Love the work you have done to the BRP Ollie. All looks great apart from that headlight. :blink: Looks like something Boony would put on his DRZ. :laugh: I know the standard headlight is large and glass just waiting to get smashed. So they usually get replaced. I am sure you will change it now that I have brought that embarrassing similarity to your attention. :laugh:

[DeanMember]

Well Its warmed up a bit and the rain has stayed away finally so Ive been taking the BRP to work most mornings :woohoo: can leave half an hour later now :laugh: . I have been havinf a few issues with the bike getting hot as it doesnt like sitting in traffic. Ive had to do a few drastic things. First of all I fitted a IP55 rated computer fan from Jaycar. I tried to wire it into the basic XR wiring but I think most of the electrics on the XR is AC so I was only getting half of the required fan speed. To overcome this I fitted a small 12v battery under the seat. I had to use a heat gun and a dremel to make it fit but I think it turned out pretty good.

The battery is a total loss system so I also made up some charging tails that I hook into my trickle charger once a week.

The battery was only $28 from battery world. I ordered some High performance radiator hoses from Ebay delivered for $45.

The thermostat is a known weak point on the XR and this is no different I think it is F.U.C.T (failed under continuous testing :laugh: ) I removed the thermostat as I dont think it really needs it in the heat of summer 👿

I mounted a illuminated rocker switch onto the barpad , its easy to reach and easy to see when its on

The vapor dash has a digital temp gauge with preset warning lights
I added some new coolant and hopefully all these mods will help keep a lid on the temps. I now have to try and stop myself from over indulging the use of the loud maker :blush:

[Mick DMember]

Good work Ollie. I will be interested to see how it goes as mine has the occasional hot moment. :unsure:

[DeanMember]

micknmeld wrote:

Good work Ollie. I will be interested to see how it goes as mine has the occasional hot moment. :unsure:

No worries Mick, I also took your advice and fitted a new triple clamp and fat bars which raised them significantly and makes it more comfortable when standing. And because It does get ridden on the road I also fitted a new LED tail light and number plate holder to make it Legit to keep constable Plod off my case. :laugh: next up will be modifying the Dash so I can fit the twin cigarette lighter adapter so I can power up the GPS. photo’s to come later.

Ollie

[GregMember]

Nice work Ollie  just on the thermostat business as you may know I have spent the last 6 months researching and searching and getting advice regarding rebuilding mine. The thermostat has come up a few times even while talking with Al Baker from XR only in the states when I was there. He said the only time they have ever got away without running the thermostat is during the Baja where the bike are held flat. They said the engine will run to cold otherwise, he also it was a contributing factor to mine having done the miles it has. Mine has always had a thermostat fitted even in safari trim when I bought it. I check mine from time to time as you have said they do fail. Here is an link or two regarding the thermostat and possible options. I have also read somewhere regarding overheating in tight slow going with the 650R when the thermostat is removed. It said with the thermostat removed, when going slow and the revs are up the coolant flows thru the radiators to fast not giving the coolant time in the radiator to cool. Some guys use a washer and drill the centre out to control the flow :blink:

http://www.xr650r.us/issues/8.shtml

http://www.xrsonly.com/xrs-only-high-performance-thermostat-honda-xr650r

Some extra info I couldn’t link

#2 Q: What’s wrong with my thermostat? Here’s a flaw that Honda doesn’t seem to want to acknowledge. The center guide pin of the thermostat slips from it’s holder, causing the valve to stick in an almost open position. Most bikes seem to do it sooner or later. Mine made it 2 seasons before finally failing. 

Here’s a couple places to start looking. The Motorad brand found at Canadian Tire and under the AutoZone name seems to be the one that fits best and even has a dongle already in the bleed hole, making it easier to drill than nothing at all. Either way you go, you want a unit meant for the 1990 Suzuki Swift or some smaller GM cars. The Napa units will fit, but you’ll have to compress the cage a tiny bit to make it fit in the housing. Some say they just throw it in and squish it with the housing bolts, but I’m not that brave.

Napa #115 (215 for the 190f ‘stat)
Carquest #31978
AutoZone #457-180
Canadian Tire #14-4073-0
(???) MotoRad #239-180 (???)
 Be sure to drill a small bleed hole on the rim like the stocker to allow coolant to flow before the valve gets hot, eliminating hot spots in the engine.

Tip: The thermostat can be easily checked, as it uses a rubber o-ring instead of a gasket in the manifold. Just remove the LH shroud to get at it. Fluid can be drained via the 10mm bolt on the water pump.

#3 Q: What does a different radiator cap do? The stock bike comes with a 1.1 cap. Raising the cap to a higher pressure allows the bike to run a bit hotter before it begins boiling. It will also help you high altitude guys even more, as your lower atmospheric pressure aggravates the issue. A KX500 1.6 (Kawi pn 49085-1059) cap will work in this app.

#4 Q:What are my options for coolant? First tip here is to stick with a non-silicate (red or orange tint) coolant.

Just a little sidenote: The BRP is shipped with a green coolant. When swap time comes, don’t be fooled. It is a non-silicate coolant, so don’t pour just any old green stuff back in. Use the recommended Honda, or a red over the counter non-silicate. Thanks to Jim Cesari for pointing out I needed to clear this up.

Running green non-silicate in your piggy will have two ill effects. First, red and green are not compatible and the additives used to prevent corrosion in the system will cease to work. Green coolant also uses fine silica to “sandblast” any scale buildup in the system. It will erode away soft components and grind down seals.

Some add a “water wetter”, such as Red Line, but my vote is still out on that. I can’t even get a straight answer as to wether or not you run it with coolant or straight water. There is also a straight glycol (Evans), but that too seems gimmicky to me. It will not boil and does not expand, both of which are very good traits. the drawback there is a 15 degree higher average temperature, according to some thermodynamic calculations done by Rich.

Ollie give me a yell when your ready to do a weekend ride with a pub stay or the like. We can do the sort off tracks we used to and from the birthday ride (that style)

TB

[GregMember]

Ollie wrote:

No worries Mick, I also took your advice and fitted a new triple clamp and fat bars which raised them significantly and makes it more comfortable when standing.

Ollie

Did you fit a top triple clamp or adapters mate? If it was a triple clamp what brand was it champ?

TB

[GregMember]

Ollie I have just reread all your posts here and was it getting hot in traffic on these milder days we have been having in Sydney lately? Really think it shouldn’t eh? See you have done the cap etc. Those radiator guards are great but yeah a SOB to fit :unsure: Is it jetted real rich or real lean? Have you looked inside the radiator as best as you can, they don’t appear blocked or anything do they? I have a standard set you could try if you wanted (although having the guards makes it a huge job) maybe you could check the water pump impeller ? Mine doesn’t boil ever now, in singles 35 degree days etc I don’t have a fan or the likes, I just fitted a cap the same as yours, silicon hoses, PWR radiators (not by choice :huh: ) and got it jetted right and just using a little common sense.
Am very interested in what you find and how it goes, am willing to help if you need anything for trialing or testing

TB

[DeanMember]

Thanks TB for the offers and the Suzuki thermostat is an interesting option The bike hasnt boiled yet but it does creep up to 110 👿 hence the fan as a bit of insurance
radiators all appear ok and when the bike is mobile the temps are no issue.

jetting is 175 main 68s pilot not sure of needle/position but seems ok :unsure: I want to do the airbox mod to make it crack a bit harder as I reckon its a bit flat in the midrange (even for a 650)

The triple clamps and raisers I got are real fancy they are excellent but the service from the states is shithouse it took 8 weeks for delivery http://www.rswracing.com/xr650r.htm

I went the 2 inch raisers and I fitted Easton 1 1/8″ EXP Handlebar CR High Bend Black which are nice when standing up.

Ollie

[Mick DMember]

I am thinking my XR needs rejetting. I think the boil problem pretty well co-incided with me fitting the Staintune system. It also pops and farts on deceleration.

[GregMember]

Try a 65s pilot, the 175 is fine as per what I have been told by Nick

The part number is some where I will find it

TB

[DeanMember]

Trailboss wrote:

Try a 65s pilot, the 175 is fine as per what I have been told by Nick

The part number is some where I will find it

TB

Ok been having a few issues on the BRP, Yesterday whilst heading home in the Heat the bike flamed out on me about 4 times in 25km’s it only happens when coming down into the lower gears to come to a stop or a roundabout. The valves have just been adjusted and are correct,maybe the Decompression cable may need adjusting maybe it is a Jetting issue. When I roll it on sometimes it stumbles as well, I will check the air filter this arvo and see if I can find any info on the decompession cable. Frustrating at the moment any advice or opinions from learned individuals welcome

Ollie

[Mick DMember]

Ollie, when you fitted the radiator guards, did you move the horn? I did and somehow it was snagging the decomp cable and pulling it tight when ever I turned the bike to the right. It was pulling the cable tight enough that it was activating the auto decomp just a little bit and causing the bike to “flame out”. Maybe something to check. It may not be your horn, it could be one of your other modifications that is causing it to pull tight.

Or it could be that your engine is totally shagged and you need a $2000 rebuild. :ohmy: :whistle:

[DeanMember]

micknmeld wrote:

Ollie, when you fitted the radiator guards, did you move the horn? I did and somehow it was snagging the decomp cable and pulling it tight when ever I turned the bike to the right. It was pulling the cable tight enough that it was activating the auto decomp just a little bit and causing the bike to “flame out”. Maybe something to check. It may not be your horn, it could be one of your other modifications that is causing it to pull tight.

Or it could be that your engine is totally shagged and you need a $2000 rebuild. :ohmy: :whistle:

At the moment I dont have a horn,:kiss: (that sounds bad :laugh: ) but yeah there is a few cables and hoses fairly close to it. I will try and get some more slack in the cable just to be doubly sure. What is your jetting mick? or anyone else that has BRP just curious to know as I reckon yours is in a similar condition as mine whereas TB’s is probably in a higher state of tune.
I am watching a few things on Ebay atm as the dollar is good again can get a topend done now quite cheaply. what is the go with the stage 2 cams ? are they worth it,I have heard they dont leave much in the way of clearance between the valves and piston,not that I will be desert racing it or anything :laugh:

Ollie

[GregMember]

Why would it need a top end overhaul, what does that have to do with flaming out into round abouts :blink: The decomp is worth a look but normally only causes a problem when the bars are around or on full lock. What about thinking it out, what did you to it when you started changing all the hoses etc, or fitted the fan. Recheck all that if needed. If not what’s the float level? BTW part number for the 68s jet is
68S Pilot Jet 99105-MBN-0680
Speak with Nick Doyle regarding all XR650r questions Ollie, no one here has fitted cams to theirs and stock is best unless you buy one like mine done properly in my opinion. Hell they go like stink suspension is the key to them, ask Mick and Crash. And better to ride stock, much more useable power

Nicks number is 47322626 he knows them inside out mate, has more than likely seen your problem before and can answer the question re camshafts

My opinion only

TB

[Author]

Posts